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SOS - Engine fault 😭😭😭

ZimaBlue

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Hey everyone. Need some help.

I bought a car yesterday, 2010, 156 hp, 145k on the odometer. Drove about 10 kilometers, and decided to fill up with 98 gas with remnants of 95, almost under a full tank.

This morning everything was fine and I drove safely to work. In the evening, returning from work, drove literally 200 meters, the error "check engine" popped up, the car began to choke and twitch. I rolled it to the curb and stopped, it was still jerking, as if back and forth, and not responding to the gas. At this point I noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust. After turning the ignition off and on, the car started to respond to the accelerator, but the fault did not go away. As I gradually drove home, the car continued to be unresponsive on the gas at every stop and I was need to start it again.
What could have happened? Is this the end?
 

RCZ-mad

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At this point I noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust. After turning the ignition off and on, the car started to respond to the accelerator, but the fault did not go away.
Sounds like a head gasket blown, white smoke usually indicator of that.

A blown head gasket can cause various symptoms in a vehicle, including:
  1. Overheating: This is one of the most common signs. The engine may overheat due to a compromised head gasket, leading to higher temperatures than normal.
  2. White smoke from the exhaust: If you notice thick white smoke coming from the exhaust, it could indicate coolant leaking into the combustion chambers and burning along with fuel.
  3. Milky or frothy oil: A blown head gasket might allow coolant to mix with engine oil, causing a milky or frothy appearance on the dipstick or under the oil filler cap.
  4. Bubbles in the radiator or coolant overflow tank: When the engine is running, bubbles appearing in the radiator or overflow tank could suggest exhaust gases are leaking into the cooling system due to the blown gasket.
  5. Loss of coolant without visible leaks: If you consistently need to refill the coolant but don't find any leaks externally, it could indicate a head gasket issue where the coolant is being burned in the engine.
  6. Poor engine performance: A blown head gasket can lead to a decrease in engine power, rough idling, or misfiring due to the compromised seal between cylinders.
So, do some checks and see what you find.
 

ZimaBlue

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Turns out the problem is in the pipe that goes from the filter to the turbo.
It has this part number: ESEN SKV43SKV087.

Does anyone know if a similar pipe from a BMW or Mini EP6 engine will fit?
 
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RCZ-mad

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Turns out the problem is in the pipe that goes from the filter to the turbo.
It has this part number: ESEN SKV43SKV087.

Does anyone know if a similar pipe from a BMW or Mini EP6 engine will fit?
At least it wasn't a blown head gasket! So what exactly is wrong with that pipe, is it split? And how did you find out that was the problem?
 

lfe

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Turns out the problem is in the pipe that goes from the filter to the turbo.
It has this part number: ESEN SKV43SKV087.

Does anyone know if a similar pipe from a BMW or Mini EP6 engine will fit?

I had that pipe cracked for a while and the car ran fine. I think that even if it were removed, those problems you describe would not appear.

You can buy the pipe for the RCZ in several places, including ebay and aliexpress, even in various colors
 

RCZ-mad

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I had that pipe cracked for a while and the car ran fine. I think that even if it were removed, those problems you describe would not appear.

You can buy the pipe for the RCZ in several places, including ebay and aliexpress, even in various colors
Yeah I'm thinking it isn't the pipe either, that's why I asked how they found out it was the pipe.

Thing is, if that pipe is from the intake to the turbo after the air filter, then it just means air is being taken in that isn't passing through the air filter.

And as far as I'm aware, the THP156 doesn't even have a MAF sensor.
 

Pedro

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As long as its not affecting the oil vapour bypass ?
 

ZimaBlue

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You can buy the pipe for the RCZ in several places, including ebay and aliexpress, even in various colors
Well, I asked if the pipe from the other EP6 will fit bc there are none here on Cyprus and I have to wait for it to come from the mainland...(((
 

ZimaBlue

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Thing is, if that pipe is from the intake to the turbo after the air filter, then it just means air is being taken in that isn't passing through the air filter.
1703069135497.png If you look at this pic, does this pipe go from the turbo to the filter? Isn't that the engine sort of on the right side? :oops:
 

RCZ-mad

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What do you think, guys?
This is the flow of air on the compressor side. As you can see, even if you completely removed that pipe (in red) it would make no difference to the power deliver, the engine is still getting air, it just wouldn't be passing through the air filter.

RCZ - turbo - compressor side air.png
 
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RCZ-mad

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If there was a split or loose fitting AFTER the turbo had compressed the intake air, THEN you might have issues like you described.

So your mechanic has clearly made an error when telling you its that pipe with the issue. Perhaps they didn't actually look at it properly and don't know the engine.

OR perhaps they are a dodgy mechanic that knows it's a different issue but get you in the door with a 'simple' fix, then tell you later its going to cost much more because they 'found' more issues etc.

Who knows? Either way, the issue isn't that pipe.
 
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