Peugeot RCZ Forum
Register a free account today to become a member. It's free! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, connect with other members through your own private inbox and take part in competitions!
Power steering buzzing
- Thread starter badger146
- Start date
Have you def diagnosed it to power steering? Is the power steering a bit tighter to use?
Check the power steering oil level and if necessary top up and move steering full rack left then right a couple of times to re bleed. If that does make a difference, make sure and have a very good look to see where it’s leaking from.
Some time ago I had noticed a buzzing after a run and tracked it to the turbo Aux cooling pump that runs on for a few minutes after switching the engine off.
New pump and noise away.
Check the power steering oil level and if necessary top up and move steering full rack left then right a couple of times to re bleed. If that does make a difference, make sure and have a very good look to see where it’s leaking from.
Some time ago I had noticed a buzzing after a run and tracked it to the turbo Aux cooling pump that runs on for a few minutes after switching the engine off.
New pump and noise away.
How much was this to be done is it big job.my problem is hardly nobody has worked on rcz
Best to be sure first, using the parts cannon to diagnose things can make it expensive.
If it is the turbo pump that is buzzing, changing it is not too expensive nor that big a job with a bit of mechanical knowledge.
Soon will give to indy peugeot garage,see if get to bottom of it, no warning lights ,fluid topped up still making noise. Last try if don't get to what it is just getting rid off it getting pissed off now,,,, going back to volvos
What has you so focused on the power steering?
Something you mentioned above about no noise cold then noise when warmed up.
Does the noise stay when warmed up and sitting stationary?
Yes - carry on reading.
No - I hope Indy get it sorted.
This engine had a few ‘hands’ in the design and I am fairly sure that BMW thought this was a good idea.
There is an electronic water pump pulley device that engages the water pump only when the engine has warmed up. It is disengaged when cold so as to allow the engine to warm up quicker and improve efficiency and thereby reduce emissions. It works by the ecu putting 12v onto it to wind it in away from the water pump pulley, just above it. It has a manual release to disengage it, by means of pulling on the release cable as shown by the curved arrow, it has a hole thru it at fully drawn to hook over a catch (yellow circle).
You can test this at home, get the engine really nicely warmed up, and buzzing present.
(Maybe practice, or get the feel for where things are on a cold engine so your not feeling around a hot engine).
Switch off the engine, pull the manual release and hook it over the marked spike.
Restart the engine and listen for the noise.
Noise away, this pulley could be on its way out, when changing, change it, the water pump pulley and the belt at the same time.
Remember when you are finished to release the manual cable to ensure the water pump is back in operation.
I would also be tempted to check the water pump bearing and the alternator clutch bearing whilst in there and the engine is cold, just release the belt tensioner whilst the water pump drive is disengaged and you’ll be able to remove the belt easily (mark its direction of rotation before removing, refit as came out). If you need guidance on how to remove the belt just shout out.
(I’ll be quiet and not slag Volvo off for having self destructing engines on alternator belt failure).
Something you mentioned above about no noise cold then noise when warmed up.
Does the noise stay when warmed up and sitting stationary?
Yes - carry on reading.
No - I hope Indy get it sorted.
This engine had a few ‘hands’ in the design and I am fairly sure that BMW thought this was a good idea.
There is an electronic water pump pulley device that engages the water pump only when the engine has warmed up. It is disengaged when cold so as to allow the engine to warm up quicker and improve efficiency and thereby reduce emissions. It works by the ecu putting 12v onto it to wind it in away from the water pump pulley, just above it. It has a manual release to disengage it, by means of pulling on the release cable as shown by the curved arrow, it has a hole thru it at fully drawn to hook over a catch (yellow circle).
You can test this at home, get the engine really nicely warmed up, and buzzing present.
(Maybe practice, or get the feel for where things are on a cold engine so your not feeling around a hot engine).
Switch off the engine, pull the manual release and hook it over the marked spike.
Restart the engine and listen for the noise.
Noise away, this pulley could be on its way out, when changing, change it, the water pump pulley and the belt at the same time.
Remember when you are finished to release the manual cable to ensure the water pump is back in operation.
I would also be tempted to check the water pump bearing and the alternator clutch bearing whilst in there and the engine is cold, just release the belt tensioner whilst the water pump drive is disengaged and you’ll be able to remove the belt easily (mark its direction of rotation before removing, refit as came out). If you need guidance on how to remove the belt just shout out.
(I’ll be quiet and not slag Volvo off for having self destructing engines on alternator belt failure).
Ah I saw this on YouTube salvage rebuilds . But what would be steering for this. Sound is hydraulic sounding. What I've done is syphon some brake fluid out the colour in syringe was dark, replaced it back with a bit extra in, but noise is not so loud going to get flushed, serviced see what happens
Mine is 200 engine do they have this set up
