Hi From Slovakia my new RCZ

[Nadzi]

Hello. Today I became the proud owner of a Peugeot RCZ. I am switching from a Citroën C6.
The car has a 1.6 THP 200 engine and 211,000 KM on the clock. The car has a MOT but has not passed the emission control.

I am very happy with how the whole car looks and how beautiful it is. However, I have some problems with the engine and it will definitely need service.
I want to ask you for advice, I am a complete novice in this segment.

The engine runs irregularly. The power fluctuates quite a bit and you can feel some burning during sharp acceleration.
The car has been standing for 6 months and has not been driven.
The owner told me a lot of things, but I honestly don't know what is true.
but I don't mind that I want to repair the car myself and take care of it.

Non-original diagnostics show me such errors.

P1340 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P1385 - Variable Cam Timing Solenoid B Malfunction
P2339 - Cylinder 4 - above knock threshold
P2074 - Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/mass air flow (MAF) sensor - throttle position
P0104 - Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - circuit intermittent
P1336 - Crank / Cam Sensor Range / Performance S2000OM1/2 - High misfire on several cylinders ME7.4.5. Combustion misfiring on unspecified cylinder

I will be glad for any advice at the beginning.

 

[EddieJ]

That’s quite a bit, possibly suggesting the car has had a hard life with little maintenance, or ‘by the book’ maintenance.
Its hard for anyone to be precise without putting a hand on the car so this is only my opinion.
The burning smell could be from a leaking rocker cover gasket, a common enough issue on them, but there are a few other common oil leak spots such as the turbo oil feed pipe and the fuel filter housing to block gaskets.
The first three dtc’s can be lack of servicing, ie bad oil and overdue plugs but as the car has been sitting about and with high enough mileage, it could be effects of damp around connections. Do you know the service and timing chain history?

If it were me I would start with a compression test and see if the cylinders are close to equal and making good pressure, cylinder knock could be from timing, valve or injector issues. Followed by a new timing chain kit, if compression is healthy, inc both vanos and vanos solenoids and a darn good full service. With the rocker cover off you’ll know the service regime that it has had, stained black and goop over the cams isn’t something you’ll want to see. If it is foul you might want to take the sump off and clean it out along with an inspection of the oil pump.
You might need to changeout the coil packs too.
Then if the intermittent faults remain I’d be searching through the sensor connection for any signs of corrosion.

Costs could rack up quite quickly and it may actually be that putting the car in somewhere to be looked at could save you money in the long run.
By the way, good luck with it and keep posting as you progress, someone might be able to say something very specific that helps you or you might come across something that may help others.

 

[Nadzi]

Thank you very much for the very quick reply. I have very little information about the service status and I personally doubt the truth. According to the previous owner, a new timing belt kit was replaced, the valve cover gasket was new, the head gasket was new, the head was flat, new bolts were installed. However, I have no proof at all of this and I don't know if it is true.
However, I have no proof at all of this and I don't know if it is true.
Nemám však žiadny dôkaz o tom a neviem, či je to pravda.
However, I have no proof of this at all and I don't know if it's true.
Nemám však žiadny dôkaz o tom a neviem, či je to pravda.


I am leaking oil from the turbo line. Can I fix it myself at home? My mechanic can take me for a checkup on Tuesday, but for now I want to do at least the basic things.

The coils are new, but the owner said he only did 3 and a quarter that needed to be fixed. When I went to change the coil, it wasn't fully pushed in. I looked inside where the spark plug is and there is a bent rubber from some coil and some coil was connected to it that is about 4 centimeters shorter. Could this be causing misfire or is it okay to have another coil?

Personally, I don't think the timing was changed because they didn't adjust the timing.

 

[Verminator]

Coil 3 is a common indicator of the hpfp a quick check is swap coil pack for one that is running fine and if you put in number 3 and it changes or works fine in the one that you have swapped then it's down to the high pressure fuel pump....
Hope this helps you out
Drive safe and stay lucky
Les n Co

 

[EddieJ]

I overlooked the hpfp, as Les says it is another common fail point that can give you all sorts of running issues as you listed above. The oil in them can sludge and or escape. There is a means of measuring to give an initial idea of condition, YouTube hpfp rebuild for a bit of a guide as to measurements etc. Replacements can be expensive, watch for refurb units from china, they can be very hit and miss to actually being refurb’d.

The oil feed pipes can be done at home, without removing the radiators (book says remove), however it is awkward for access and can get quite involved. I have sort of stepped through it so you can get an idea of how involved it is so you can better decide.

You will need to disconnect the flexi section of the exhaust (V band clamp may break if it’s rusted, good dose of penetrating oil in advance).
Then off with the heat shields around the cat and take the cat off, the cat can be lowered down with a twist to get it out of the way. The front heat shields around also lowers out of the way, and with a twist to get it out the bottom, just be careful of the radiator fins, piece of cardboard tucked in can help.
With the cat out of the way you can access the oil feed line from block to turbo, at this level of stripping it is well worthwhile to also change the gaskets on the filter housing, they dry and harden too and you don’t want to have to start removing the cat and second time soon after. Be sure to drain the coolant down as the oil filter housing has both oil and coolant thru it.
Youll need to consider having the following to hand if you do attempt at home, penetrating oil, exhaust clamp, turbo to cat gasket, oil filter housing gaskets (id suggest inner and outer if your that far in), turbo oil feed and return pipes, oil filter, oil (small quantity of coolant will dribble into the sump when you unscrew it from the block, so oil will need changed), lots of brake and clutch cleaner as all mating surface should be like new Before reassembly.The cat/turbo nuts and bolts will also be well rusted, soaking in pen oil may help but I’d have new ones to hand so as not to hold back the rebuild.

When your cats off, check you turbo - impeller condition and wastegate play. There are various videos online about turbos to help.