FAO RCZ1

[Anonymous]

Hi RCZ1,

Could you recommend a liguid wax that will protect and give a deep shine on a white finish. There are so many on the market that its a bit of a mine field. :crazy:

Whenever i "research" one or another they all say the same sort of thing, "WE ARE THE BEST" & "DONT TRUST THE REST". :?

Any advice would be great.
Thanks.
Jactac.

 

[RCZ1]

Hi jactac

Well to be honest I have never used a liquid wax. I like to apply a "proper" carnauba wax with my bare hands as I just enjoy doing it :shock:

However, a liquid wax is much like a sealant, which I have been using more of in the last year or so as they tend to be less temperamental than waxes and quicker to apply. A sealant I have been using is the Werkstat Acrylic Jett, which is a real breeze to use and adds a lovely finish to White cars in particular.

Werkstat also do a liquid wax, which also gets rave reviews and although I haven't tried it, I've no doubt it will be just as good as the sealant I use. It's aimed at solid colours whereas the acrylic one I use is for metallic/pearlescent paint. The wax is called Werkstat Carnauba Jett - see this link below
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog ... cat13.html

You can add many layers easily. 4 or 5 layers will give at least 6 months of protection. Each time you wash you can add another layer and it doesn't remove the layers you have already applied. Just spray a panel at a time, a couple of squirts, wipe with a micro fibre cloth, then buff with a clean micro fibre cloth. Easy.

This company also do free delivery and it can only be bought on-line.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:

 

[Anonymous]

Hi RCZ1,
Thanks for the tips.
Do you "polish/wax" before using Werkstat Acrylic Jett ?

I've looked up Werkstat Carnauba Jett and it does sound good. I really want to keep on top of the paint finish right from the start, i think in the long term it will be easier to maintain if i protect it from the start.

What is your basic regime, say for instance weekly, then monthly.

Thanks,
jactac

 

[Joske]

I use smart wax. It's a creme with carnauba. (http://www.customcarcleaning.nl/webshop ... t_wax.html)

 

[RCZ1]

Hi RCZ1,
Thanks for the tips.
Do you "polish/wax" before using Werkstat Acrylic Jett ?

I've looked up Werkstat Carnauba Jett and it does sound good. I really want to keep on top of the paint finish right from the start, i think in the long term it will be easier to maintain if i protect it from the start.

What is your basic regime, say for instance weekly, then monthly.

Thanks,
jactac

Well Werkstat have a full kit, which I use. First of all there is the Prime, which is a non abrasive polich/cleanser. It cleans really deeply so prepares your paintwork really well before applying the Jett. Then there is the Werkstat Gloss, which is used as a top up after each wash, which adds a really lovely gloss to the finish, gives it that just waxed look.

Only when I'm doing a full detail, which is the start of every season, (Just did my Spring detail in March, Summer one will be due towards the end of June), do I use the full kit. So for example for a full detail entails:
snowfoamed
washed,
clayed,
polished with Werkstat Prime
2 coats of Werkstat Acrylic Jett
1 coat of Gloss

Then every for the next 3 washes I would add another layer of the Acrylic Jett until until I have a total of 5 or 6 layers (giving at least 6 months protection). Also on each wash when I've snowfoamed, washed and dried then I add a coat of Gloss and that's all you need to do each time you wash. It will take literally 15 minutes (if that) to put a coat of the Jett on and the same for the Gloss. That will leave the paintwork shiny, protected until I come to do the full detail in another 3 months time. You don't have to polish every month or whatever, as long as the paintwork has been prepared properly in the first place and I know you have the Paint Protection, so all you will need to do is use the Jett and Gloss.

Hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

RCZ1, Thanks for that.
Ive just Googled the products and they do have good reviews, and are reasonably priced.
So basicaly its, wash, Jett, then Gloss.

To be honest the paint protection that Marcus sorted out looks good and was applied very well, so i just want to keep on top of it with a decent waxing.

Joske, thanks also for your tip, i looked at the link, it's in German i think, lol, but i also Googled the "smart wax" i have read about it and it was also one that i was interested in.

Theres so many out there, i think it's a bit of trial and error until you find something your happy with.

 

[Anonymous]

I dont quite understand claying yet, If you snow foam x 2 then wash with mitt its pretty clean, then supposedly you clay it before you seal it. So how is is possible that claying the car doesn't pick up the minute particles left on the surface AND not scratch the lacquered surface, also unless the car is completely stripped of any sealant/wax, will the clay be able to get to the smaller particles?

I'm sure I can count on RCZ1 to come up with the answers!

 

[RCZ1]

I dont quite understand claying yet, If you snow foam x 2 then wash with mitt its pretty clean, then supposedly you clay it before you seal it. So how is is possible that claying the car doesn't pick up the minute particles left on the surface AND not scratch the lacquered surface, also unless the car is completely stripped of any sealant/wax, will the clay be able to get to the smaller particles?

I'm sure I can count on RCZ1 to come up with the answers!

Claying removes the contaminants that normal washing and snow foaming do not remove. It's a build up of environmental contaminants such as tar, bird etchings (you may think you have removed these but on close inspection the etchings are still there - it's acidic so it eats into the paint), soot, ash, etc. If you rub your clean hands over your paintwork you can feel the contaminants or even hear them. Watch this you tube video it's very useful and I use this clay bar too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL5 ... ata_player
The difference in a clayed car and un-clayed car is amazing. The shine on the car is instant, before you've even polished it. Contaminants, swirls, scratches on a car reduce the shine on a car.

Clay bars come in different grades so I've only ever used the Megs one in the video and if you clay properly ie don't apply pressure and use loads and loads of lube, then you will be fine and you won't inflict scratches. You just have to keep folding the clay to a clean side so that you don't inflict scratches. Lube is a water based product, you can actually use water if you wish in a spray bottle. Before you move the clay over a panel, spray it with the lube so it's wet then the clay is not on dry paintwork, which can cause scratching. I use far more lube then you get in the bottle in the video as I'm paranoid about making sure there is enough lubrication. Then just dry the panel down as you go. I've snowfoamed, washed and dried the car then I clay. Once that is complete then polish, wax or sealant, then final spray with Glos, for example.

 

[RCZ1]

Forgot to mention, that claying will remove waxes and sealants. It removes everything. Your paintwork will feel silky smooth after claying. :dance:

 

[Anonymous]

Claying really does sound like hard work though. :?

 

[RCZ1]

Nah, piece of clay

To do my Pearl took me one hour. 2 hours to do my husbands's Landrover :shock:
It's very therapeutic I find. :eusa-think:

 

[Anonymous]

It's probably because i've never tried it, and i can only imagine clay as being hard to soften up and keep rolling around in your hand ?

A friend of mine had a red Beemer which was around 10 year old, faded no depth to the paint and a bit of a dog to be honest, anyway he spent a couple of hours claying it and then polish / wax, it was an unbelievable transformation. I thought it had been re-sprayed when i first looked at it.

 

[RCZ1]

Yeah just goes to show the benefits of looking after your paintwork :thumbup:

 

[Anonymous]

you mentioned that you use more lube than is supplied in the bottles? so does that mean you just use water?

I will be getting me some clay and giving the car a proper clay down...once I have bought a decent wax/sealant.

I'm using Nanolex and its really really good on my alloys but not convinced about it on the paint work...yet.

From the evidence of the alloys beading and repelling the break dust etc it seems good, but I guess maybe I'm expecting more on the paint, don't know exactly what that is though hahaha, detailing world say its pretty good though...AGGGGHHHHH too many choices not enough money/cars to try the products on!

 

[RCZ1]

I use Chemical Guys Synthetic Detailer. It has a multitude of uses and I buy it in 1 gallon containers it can be used as a QD, clay lube, bird dropping remover, glass shower cubicle cleaner :eusa-think:
When I use it as a clay lube it can be diluted so I put about about 2 inches in the spray bottle then fill it with water. So it is majority water. You can just use water though if you wish. Just put water into a spray bottle and away you go - just use plenty of it.

I've not tried Nanolex but it does get similar reviews to the G-techniq sealant that I have used in the past. It has very long durability. What is it that you want your paintwork to look like? Do you want a glassy look or a wet look? Different products provide different things. Once you know what sort of look you want then the product list becomes a little easier.

 

[Anonymous]

well thats the thing, I guess the "glassy look" but also something that will resist the blumin pollen/dust. After reading into DW I think Im going to go for the Bilt Hamber Regular for my first claying and the soft for preceding claying.

Thanks again Guru RCZ1!

 

[RCZ1]

The Bilt Hamber is very good and very popular. The Megs clay was the first one I bought and it worked fine for me so I've just stuck with it. Used it on several cars and it's always done its thing well :thumbup:

However much we would like it, there isn't anything out there that will resist pollen / dust I'm afraid. If you want the glassy look then these are better provided by sealants. Waxes tend to add warmth to the paint or some a wet look.
Let us know which you decide on.

 

[Anonymous]

In that case Im going to stick with the nanolex, its really easy to apply and does last a while, especially now that I know not to use too much. The Nanolex glass stuff is pretty decent too. The black roof of the car is tough to stop from getting swirls which is a little frustrating, but the rest of the car is a sinch with the products I have.

Thanks again!