Engine Fault Warning

[Anonymous]

I know that there are a lot of similar topics, but couldn't find one quite the same, so apologies if I missed a similar thread. I should also point out that I know nothing about cars unfortunately.

I've been having problems over the last 12 months or so with the engine fault light coming on. The warning light only seems to come on when I'm stuck in a traffic jam, after a while, the car judders quite badly and the light comes on. I seem to be able to postpone the inevitable if I keep the revs above 1,000 it doesn't judder. Have no problems at all when driving normally, just seems to be when the car is idling. Also had no problems from March until last week when weather became cold again, but assume this is coincidence? Have had it diagnosed quite a few times with new spark plugs and 2 x new coil packs (1 & 4), but warning light would still appear if I got stuck in traffic. The garage swapped the new coil packs around but it still said the fault was with 1 & 4. The diagnostic also mentioned the possibility of a fault with the fuel pump, but mechanic said there was 2 and it would be a guess which one to replace. I've also noticed that there is a lot more "smoke" coming out of my exhaust than in other cars, but he said that wasn't an issue. Anyone experienced anything similar or any suggestions? Love the car, but it's getting to be a bit of a pain now. nb - when the warning light comes on, it doesn't go into limp home mode, in fact, seems to drive better lol

 

[pete.garratt]

I wonder if it's a temperature or air pressure/flow sensor issue?

That might explain why the symptoms are worse now the weather's changed - it spends longer warming up, giving incorrect fuelling/timing so that it runs very rough.

Not sure if that would explain why only certain cylinders are reported as faulty, though - unless it's just a quirk of the diagnostic reporting system.

Has anyone actually checked all the other engine sensors and positively shown them to be working properly?

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the speedy reply Pete. Will ask the question when the mechanic is back from his hols next week, but I'm guessing the answer is no the sensors haven't been checked (but I could be pleasantly surprised!). They just seem to do the diagnostic check rather than looking in the engine. Could one of the sensors be the reason why it only affects my car when stuck in traffic? With all the road works on motorways near Manchester, traffic jams are the norm at the moment!!

 

[pete.garratt]

Well, I'd only be guessing, but temperature or air flow sensors might be an explanation.

 

[pete.garratt]

Well, I'd only be guessing, but temperature or air flow sensors might be an explanation.

 

[pete.garratt]

It might also be worth investing in one of the OBD2 dongles you can use with a smart phone and plug it into the diagnostic port. (Prices from £5 to £50 upwards, depending on phone and needs.)

Poor idling can come about for a number of reasons - fuel supply, vacuum leaks etc. etc.

Have a read of this link, and see if it helps identify any other possible causes:

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solvi ... idleissues

 

[neilgsxr69]

Hi, I have the occasional same fault which probably isn't as bad as yours but very occasionally when idling it will start to run rough a blip of the throttle sorts it though and it's not every time I pull up in traffic. It happened the other day probably the first time in 12 months. I did once leave it to run rough and to see what happens and it eventually stalled and put the warning message on the dash, restarted the car and no problem with it and the warning message disappeared after a few days so I never got it checked. it's not really bothered me as it only happens occasionally. Let us know if you get to the bottom of it but I think its definitely a fuel air ratio problem. :thumbup:

 

[tianorth]

Which version of RCZ do you have?
When it starts to faulter are you sat in gear with the clutch down?
But when you are sat out of gear it doesn't faulter?

 

[pete.garratt]

Are you saying yours is OK out of gear but judders in gear with clutch depressed?

Please clarify.

 

[pete.garratt]

Are you saying yours is OK out of gear but judders in gear with clutch depressed?

Please clarify.

 

[thornebt]

I've had a few problems with fault code coming up (P1340 I think it was). Description is 'severe misfire on cylinder 4'. I've changed coil packs but the problem always seem to be cured by adding a fuel additive, I use Wurth petrol additive 300ml bought on Ebay. Next time I'm going to just add the can of additive I now carry in the boot and reset the code with the code reader I also carry in the boot. It can be very inconvenient to go into limp mode when you're a couple of hundred miles from home!

Anyway, it will be interesting to see if that is the cure for me if I get the P1340 code in the future. I tend to drive with a very light foot with an eye on the fuel consumption. I know a lot of you will probably ask what the point is in owning an RCZ and driving it in such a docile manner but I just love the car.

Cheers. Bruce.

 

[tianorth]

I drive mine with an eye on fuel consumption as well.
You not the only one!

 

[DKZ5745]

I like to drive as fast as possible between petrol stations, just to make sure I don't run out before I get there :wtf:

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks again Pete. Just received an Amazon voucher so will now invest in a OBD2 dongle. The damn light came on again this morning, although other than the amount of "smoke" coming out of the exhaust (it was -3), it does run much better when the engine warning light is on Thanks for the link as well, although raises lots more issues for me to consider.

I think the warning lights has come on more when I'm idling in neutral (in a traffic jam), although this morning, it came on when I was moving slowly (in another traffic jam) in 1st gear. The car sort of starts to judder and so I try and keep the revs above 1K to stop the juddering, which does seem to work.

The mechanic hasn't come back to me yet, so I haven't asked him about checking the sensors.

Anyway, thanks again for your interest and replies.

 

[tianorth]

Check the gap of your spark plugs, mine was trying to tickover now and again at over 1000rpm, but since the service where new plugs were fitted it's always been 650-850rpm tickover.

 

[pete.garratt]

Anyway, thanks again for your interest and replies.

You're very welcome. Just remember, despite the fancy management system, it's still: suck, squeeze, bang, blow.

All the basics still apply. Hopefully, the OBD dongle will give you a few insights. Another thing to beat in mind IDT that there appear to be two types of fault codes, pending and permenant. Pending codes turn into permenant Ines if they persist, only permenant codes turn on the warning light. Your code reader and the appropriate app should be able to show you both. That might give some more pointers. Certainly, checking plug gaps (as well as air filter cleanliness/sealing, fluid levels etc.) won't do any harm and may give some more clues. Are your plugs fouled in any way, for instance (oil/carbon)?

 

[Anonymous]

Are you still talking about the car? lol

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Tia. Had new spark plugs fitted earlier this year, but will get them checked. Tickover seems to be normally 850 ish, although I want it to tick over at 1,000 revs as it doesn't seem to judder then :eusa-think: