BSI reset and coolant sensor

[knightyFPV]

Hi all first post here, sorry its an asking for help one.

Got my first RCZ a week ago and was having issues with the fan staying on after turning the engine off and then it beeing on from when i start the car.

After a reading a few posts on here and from google it looked like replacing the coolant temperature sensor was needed so £9.80 later it was in the post.

Swapped it over fine, was shocked that the old one had no oring so was glad i did it but the issue still remains.

Doing some more research i have seen a few post mentioning a BSI reset. Is this something that is needed to be done after replacing the sensor or am i barking up the wrong tree?

Other than this the car drives like a dream, everything works and the temp has never been past 90 so its not over heating.

Just so i give all the info its a 2010 GT 1.6 thp 156

Thanks

 

[neilgsxr69]

You don’t need to do a BSI reset, and to be honest the BSI reset procedure is regularly advised but as my Peugeot specialist says hardly ever resets any issues.

 

[knightyFPV]

Hi thank you for the reply. Ill keep on looking into the fault, might have to give in and end up at the garage though

 

[Pedro]

BSI for a coolant system fault is not going to fix this it may be down to the thermostat as this is electronically assisted & if its playing up it can affect anything to do with cooling-heating air con & the dreaded EML light

 

[knightyFPV]

So just a quick update.

The coolant sensor, other than missing the oring, was not what was causing the issue.

I started getting P2279 air intake vac leak and the fan was only running flat out when this had either trigered the EML or was sat pending.

I found that the push on pipe that run from the rocker cover to the turbo inlet was defective. The inner rubber had seperated from the outer pipe and was in no way air tight, it was only sat in place due to the forming of the pipe.

I have replaced the entire section that goes from the turb to the air filter, cleared the codes and intial testing looks good.

The only question i have is that neither the one i removed from the car, nor the after market replacment have the one way check valve at the turbo end. Is this something that should be there on the 1.6 156bhp model?

 

[knightyFPV]

BSI for a coolant system fault is not going to fix this it may be down to the thermostat as this is electronically assisted & if its playing up it can affect anything to do with cooling-heating air con & the dreaded EML light

Thank you for the reply, saved me having to reprograme my radio, clock and what ever else the BSI resets

 

[Pedro]

Common fault with the hoses I fooked them all off & fitted silicone end of story

 

[knightyFPV]

Yeah think that will be the next upgrade.

Quick question, when you replaced it with the silicone hose what did you do with the sensor that plugs in just before where the stock intake attaches to the turbo?

 

[Pedro]

Left it in situ its called a "Wet Sensor" sealed plug with electrical tape & zip tied it to secure location the sensor being disconnected will not put the EML light on

 

[Covice]

Hi all first post here, sorry its an asking for help one.

Got my first RCZ a week ago and was having issues with the fan staying on after turning the engine off and then it beeing on from when i start the car.

After a reading a few posts on here and from google it looked like replacing the coolant temperature sensor was needed so £9.80 later it was in the post.

Swapped it over fine, was shocked that the old one had no oring so was glad i did it but the issue still remains.

Doing some more research i have seen a few post mentioning a BSI reset. Is this something that is needed to be done after replacing the sensor or am i barking up the wrong tree?

Other than this the car drives like a dream, everything works and the temp has never been past 90 so its not over heating.

Just so i give all the info its a 2010 GT 1.6 thp 156

Thanks

Hi yeah had the same problem guess what not the sensor i’ll fix this issue on many engines many times 99.9% of the time especially with this Persia you are there in the water system there’s a bleeding nipple at the back of the bulkhead where the two water pipes go into the heater matrix there’s a little nipple on one of them that you can let the air out with once that’s done come back to the Engine on the right hand side gearbox side there’s a water housing on that water housing there’s a second bleed valve you do with a screwdriver take the air out of them to locations top the problem will be gone