Suspension diagram

[GTlove]

hey guys does anyone have a diagram of the full rcz suspension set up?

 

[DKZ5745]

One of our members Tianorth has access to detailed technical drawings of the RCZ’s component parts. I think he spends more time on the owners group on FB nowadays though, but I‘m sure if he comes along he will help you out.
You could always try to PM him, but not sure with this new site if he will get a notification without visiting the site His name is Chris.

 

[GTlove]

thanks a lot ill see if I can find him

 

[tianorth]

I'll post on here just in case anyone else is interested.

There is different suspensions for the different models (156, 200, 270 1.6 petrols and 2.0 diesel).

 

[tianorth]

Some more pics, only 10 allowed per post.

 

[tianorth]

DKZ5745
I got an email notification that someone had sent me a PM.

 

[DKZ5745]

I thought that might be the case. I got an email notification of a pm the other day.

just in case anyone is reading this looking for info on sending a pm, it’s called start a conversation on this new site.

 

[tianorth]

GTlove, are those what you were after?

 

[GTlove]

Thanks mate. Yeah that's it I was hoping for a full diagram of the car though. The reason I ask is because my car pulls left. Iv changed a lot of parts. Tierods, drop links, lower controla arms, front coil springs, shocks, anti roll bar bushes, top mounts

I know the camber of the road matters but its excessive. On a straight road it will go straight on a road that cambers left it will pull so hard. Iv tested this with other cars and its not the same.

It started when I did the alignment and changed the tyres 6 months ago. Alignment seems dead on. Im wondering if its the Toyo tyres I put on as iv googled them and it seems others have noticed a pull. Would it cause pulling even if iv swapped the tyres around?

 

[DKZ5745]

Tyres can make a massive difference to the handling of a car, especially as the tyres get wider. The RCZ has quite wide tyres, so choosing the right tyre is crucial.
I have had varied experiences with tyres over the 5 years or so I’ve had my Z. My current tyres are probably the best I’ve had for handling, road noise, cornering, but maybe not longevity, but to be fair to the tyres, I think it’s a lot to do with my driving style, as the rears seem to last forever, it’s the fronts that wear quickly.
I have Michelin PS4s all round.

 

[GTlove]

thanks for replying, so do you think spending more for premium tyres is worth it? also do you find that when your driving over uneven roads the steering wheel moves left and right? Have you ever had it aligned if so where did you go? I find that every place I go to have it aligned they have a different set up.
I was thinking of getting the Cinturato P7s. Kwik Fit don't seem to have the PS4s for my Z

 

[DKZ5745]

I think the tyres are one of the most important safety features on your car, they are the only point of contact you have with the road. So, yes, I have never gone for budget tyres.

I ordered mine from black circles. You can either have them delivered to a fitting centre or to your home address, and can buy them either at a fitted price or supply only.
In the past I have always bought them “fitted” and my local Peugeot dealership is one of the fitting centres they use, so that’s where I’ve gone.

This time I was having all 4 wheels re-cut & lacquered by a local garage so I ordered them supply only & the garage fitted my new tyres free of charge.

I haven’t had my alignment done on this car. On previous vehicles I’ve used a local garage.

There are times when my steering wheel seems “fixed” in whatever direction I’m travelling in, which I know is down to the road surface. I think on cambered roads the tyre size magnifies the effect of pulling towards the camber. But I have never had a problem.

 

[GTlove]

That’s the mistake I made having it aligned when it didn’t need it. Iv had the suspension checked many times and they all say it’s perfect. Can the wheel bearing or lower ball joint cause pulling?

Also if there’s a Grindr noise through the floor well/ pedals is that just road noise or something else ?

I do have a buckled wheel that Iv recently had repaired but that was buckled since I brought the car before it pulled

 

[DKZ5745]

Grinding noise can often indicate a wheel bearing failing. I had several go on an old Peugeot 405, but they were known for it. A wheel bearing can cause the car to pull towards the side of the failing bearing.

The buckled wheel shouldn’t cause it to pull, if it’s bad then maybe steering vibration would be noticeable, but usually the tyre evens that out.

A lower ball joint would usually be indicated by a knocking rather than a grinding, you would also be able to move the wheel if you grabbed the sides & pushed them in & out. This could also cause the car to pull slightly towards the side of the failing joint as that wheel might be slightly out of alignment.

Wheel alignment is normally recommended if your car is wearing a tyre(s) on just part of the tread face or if your steering wheel is pointing slightly left or right when the car is going in a straight line. It is not recommended to be randomly done if the car is performing OK.

 

[GTlove]

Thanks that’s helpful I think the Bearing is making the noise. Could the ball joint still fail if that movement test shows no movement ?

not keen on changing more parts in my car but the wheel bearing does sound likely. Do you know how much it costs? Can any gag rage do I or should I go to dealer ?

 

[tianorth]

On the tracking, the Peugeot way of doing it has some block place at a couple of key points on the chassis, so it maintains the height and then the check is done. I did have the procedure for it a while back, maybe ask Peugeot dealership for a copy!

 

[DKZ5745]

You should be able to get a wheel bearing replaced almost anywhere. I’m afraid I’m way behind the times with costs, when I had my 405 Labour was @ £20 an hour.

If your car is out of warranty, I wouldn’t go to a main dealer for that doing. Their labour costs are now @ £125 per hour, so even the simplest job is eye wateringly expensive.

Yes the ball joint could still have failed, the car would need to be elevated, ideally on a hydraulic lift so the joint could be inspected. It might be an idea to have the garage you go to, check the wheel bearings & ball joints. Your cars ball joints should have been checked when it had its last MOT though, as it is a fail if one has gone.

Wherever you go, make sure they are aware of the issues around the jacking points on the RCZ. They need to use the cross members to lift the car, not the jacking points, as they are made of cheese, and fold and buckle causing damage to the sills if they even see a jack approaching. Seriously.

 

[GTlove]

Yeah that’s the thing, Iv had my car checked so many times they say nothings wrong with suspension and ball joints are tight. Are wheel bearing supposed to be changed in pairs on the same axle ?

 

[DKZ5745]

No, not necessary. You only need to replace a faulty wheel bearing, not both on the same axle.
There might be those that would say it’s “good practice” to do so, but to me it’s like saying if you replace a damaged tyre you need to do both on that axle. Not necessary.

 

[GTlove]

I was driving home from work yesterday and I can hear the humming noise constantly doesn’t sound like road noise to me. I have an appointment with Peugeot next week they said they will have a look and do the tracking . Unfortunately I don’t have a local garage I can trust.