Slight juddering when accelerating quickly 156 BHP

[Anonymous]

I believe I asked this question a while back, but cannot for the life of me find the thread (think it was possibly on the Owner's Group Facebook page...)

Anyway, when I accelerate quickly, often onto a dual carriage way or to overtake, I sometimes feel the car holding back with a slight judder. It does it for a couple of seconds, then it's fine. I believe others have experienced this, but cannot remember what the resolution was. I'm having the car serviced soon, which will include changing the spark plugs (can't remember if that was it?). Any help of advice on what the problem can be will be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[2retro]

I'm going to suggest the camshaft sensor is bust and needs replacing.

Had the same symptoms before - twice would you believe, and it was the same sensor both times!

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for getting back to me, is it an expensive job?

 

[2retro]

I'm afraid I don't know as mine was done under warranty - sorry.

 

[Anonymous]

No probs, did a bit of research and it looks like quite a cheap and straight forward job to replace. Did it bring up any fault indication, being a sensor?

 

[2retro]

Yes, got this after a while:

 

[Anonymous]

I had a slight judder under hard acceleration on overtaking but after the recall for software update on the ECU all seems ok now .

 

[Anonymous]

I have had this issue for nearly 2 years since I bought my RCZ in December 2014. It's totally intermittent and I cannot reproduce it on demand. The Garage I bought it from have been absolutely brilliant but they are now scratching their heads with what to look for now. To give some background info this is what I have had done:

New Spark Plugs.
New Coil Packs.
Software Upgrade - No pending updates required.
Timing Chain/Tensioner.
Inlet Valve decoke.
New Fuel Pump.
Rear PCV blanking off.
Piston Head decoke.
8 Valves Replaced due to heavy carbon build up.

Car behaved impeccably for about 2 weeks after the new valves were replaced but lo and behold the issue has returned. Interestingly, this is the first time I have actually heard the noise emitted and the only way I can describe it is that it sounds like several short burst of compressed air or a 'phutting' sound. I will hear the sound and then it stops, it will then sound again and then the ECU retards the engine as the knock sensor, I assume, is detecting abnormal detonation in the combustion chamber?

I would be so grateful if someone could shed some light on what the problem/resolution is as it's driving me insane - and the Garage even more.

Many thanks,

 

[DKZ5745]

I'm going to suggest the camshaft sensor is bust and needs replacing.

Had the same symptoms before - twice would you believe, and it was the same sensor both times!

Worth a try :eusa-think:

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I'll pass this on to the Garage. Hopefully that will solve it. Would be helpful if the ECU pointed to that being the problem but the codes always suggested knock sensor faults.

 

[Anonymous]

In so many cases NASTY PETROL is the prime cause, turbo engines are more subject to performance drops. Toluene (a paint thinner - ironically used in Benzol an anti-knock addive) is very commonly used to dillute discount fule. 10% variation is OK at sales points but once the fule has left the refinery gate there is no control. Find a sales point or chain that run a pre delivery tanker test. In Eastern OZ that's usually Caltex and BP. E10 is worse the spec allows 10% Ethonol plus 10% "extras". Add to that a bit of water from empty/low underground tanks (common on low point of fuel dicount cycles) ECU maybe a gaurdian and is just protecting one from one's self....

 

[DKZ5745]

Shell Nitro V + every time for me :thumbup: I also add Red X petrol treatment very regularly. (As in half a bottle every full tank).

 

[Anonymous]

I've used BP and Shell Nitro V but still get the intermittent problem. Quality of the petrol doesn't seem to be a factor for me.

 

[tianorth]

Quality of spark plugs or coil packs?

 

[Anonymous]

I don't think so? Had brand new set of Spark Plugs and Coil Packs, all Peugeot supplied parts. The saga continues....

 

[Anonymous]

Maybe it is that the EGR valve is operating just as you accelerate and this produces a momentary weakness in the fueling; not altering the fuel quantity injected, but letting exhaust gas into the inlet manifold (as its supposed to) just where you notice the effect on the engine. Intended EGR operation is to recirculate some exhaust emissions back to be re-burned when you the driver are least likely to notice (on the overrun) any staggering or hesitation brought about by my above description. Factor in mass production and wear and tear plus carbon fouling which can challenge the EGR's intended operating cycle :thumbdown: :thumbup: any use??? Has the EGR been cleaned/replaced/looked at or even as many do removed entirely. What fantastic engines we would have without EEC emission crap bolted to every nook and cranny; when one of these extras goes down the engine just as dirty as a 1960's Ford Anglia...... :eusa-whistle:
If it helps, even after Dealer ECU update mine does what you describe to some extent, you cant have a high..ish.. performance smallish engine and not have one or two compromises....

Another area to check would be the positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV). There are two I believe on the 1.6 petrols and solenoid controlled, so sticking jammed solenoid(s), kinked, trapped or blocked pipes would cause the noise you hear. PCV system faults can give rise to similar symptoms that you describe, although you would probably have other issues such as oil leaks due to pressure build up in the crankcase, irregular idle speeds and possibly jerky transition from cruise to acceleration (not turbo related).

Quite a bit of info and I hope it helps you to track down and cure your complaint :wave:

 

[thornebt]

I've had a few misfiring problems over the last couple of years. I get the engine fault code for a misfire on cylinder number four. The solution every time has been to add a fuel additive. I use Wurth Petrol Additive. It's a very easy thing to try - just add the 300ml tin to a reasonable amount of fuel. Has worked every time. Cheers. Bruce.

 

[DKZ5745]

From the first fill after I bought my car I ran it on super unleaded, and after a couple of months & on first joining this forum, it has always been filled with Shell Nitro Plus-V Power, and I always add half a bottle of Red X Petrol Treatment to every full tank.

I have (he says with fingers crossed) never had any issues with mis-fires, juddering or anything else of the like.

Another point along this line, I don't drive my car slowly, I mean, ever. Well - ok outside schools at turn out time etc but other than that, it gets a damn good thrashing daily.

A friend of mine- sadly no longer with us, was the manager if a VW dealership, and he once invited me to drive two VW Polos' he had in. They were consecutive registrations, and had been commissioned the same day. One for use as a demonstrator, always kept on site & taken out with a salesman, the other given out as a courtesy car. Surprisingly, the mileage was quite similar, with the courtesy car just having done a little more.

The courtesy car drove really well, very smooth, surprisingly quick on acceleration & actually felt quite nice to drive. The demonstrator was awfull. It felt jerky, slow, sluggish & would have certainly put me off buying one. Hence his invitation for me to drive both, as he was about to swap them round, after having the courtesy car smartened up a bit.
The courtesy car had obviously been redlined throughout its short life, away from prying eyes of dealership employees, whereas the demo was driven ridiculously conservatively, with a salesman sitting next to the driver each time out.

So in effect, if you give your car a damn good thrashing, at least occasionally, it will repay you by loosening up & feeling a damn site better to drive than if you tootle round in it driving like a granny.

 

[2retro]

So in effect, if you give your car a damn good thrashing, at least occasionally, it will repay you by loosening up & feeling a damn site better to drive than if you tootle round in it driving like a granny.

 

[Rizwan37]

Maybe it is that the EGR valve is operating just as you accelerate and this produces a momentary weakness in the fueling; not altering the fuel quantity injected, but letting exhaust gas into the inlet manifold (as its supposed to) just where you notice the effect on the engine. Intended EGR operation is to recirculate some exhaust emissions back to be re-burned when you the driver are least likely to notice (on the overrun) any staggering or hesitation brought about by my above description. Factor in mass production and wear and tear plus carbon fouling which can challenge the EGR's intended operating cycle any use??? Has the EGR been cleaned/replaced/looked at or even as many do removed entirely. What fantastic engines we would have without EEC emission crap bolted to every nook and cranny; when one of these extras goes down the engine just as dirty as a 1960's Ford Anglia...... :eusa-whistle:
If it helps, even after Dealer ECU update mine does what you describe to some extent, you cant have a high..ish.. performance smallish engine and not have one or two compromises....

Another area to check would be the positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV). There are two I believe on the 1.6 petrols and solenoid controlled, so sticking jammed solenoid(s), kinked, trapped or blocked pipes would cause the noise you hear. PCV system faults can give rise to similar symptoms that you describe, although you would probably have other issues such as oil leaks due to pressure build up in the crankcase, irregular idle speeds and possibly jerky transition from cruise to acceleration (not turbo related).

Quite a bit of info and I hope it helps you to track down and cure your complaint

Maybe it is that the EGR valve is operating just as you accelerate and this produces a momentary weakness in the fueling; not altering the fuel quantity injected, but letting exhaust gas into the inlet manifold (as its supposed to) just where you notice the effect on the engine. Intended EGR operation is to recirculate some exhaust emissions back to be re-burned when you the driver are least likely to notice (on the overrun) any staggering or hesitation brought about by my above description. Factor in mass production and wear and tear plus carbon fouling which can challenge the EGR's intended operating cycle any use??? Has the EGR been cleaned/replaced/looked at or even as many do removed entirely. What fantastic engines we would have without EEC emission crap bolted to every nook and cranny; when one of these extras goes down the engine just as dirty as a 1960's Ford Anglia...... :eusa-whistle:
If it helps, even after Dealer ECU update mine does what you describe to some extent, you cant have a high..ish.. performance smallish engine and not have one or two compromises....

Another area to check would be the positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV). There are two I believe on the 1.6 petrols and solenoid controlled, so sticking jammed solenoid(s), kinked, trapped or blocked pipes would cause the noise you hear. PCV system faults can give rise to similar symptoms that you describe, although you would probably have other issues such as oil leaks due to pressure build up in the crankcase, irregular idle speeds and possibly jerky transition from cruise to acceleration (not turbo related).

Quite a bit of info and I hope it helps you to track down and cure your complaint

Hi, i have the same problem with my 3008 1.6thp its annoying and concerning, i can hear knocking sound when overtaking or going up bridge ramp, I think you are right as i can see the oil leakage on headcover gasket and around the cover, its not massive but its noticable oil spots leakage . I have replaced all spark plugs, all coils, used fuel additives, etc etc nothing worked for me. So this is the point i need to check next.

Thanks for the suggestions