Screen flicker, loss, loose connection.

[Anonymous]

Dear all,

I MADE IT !!!!!

Had time today since out of work earlier, and utilized a 5E cable (sheilded network cable).

Had not a 6E available and checking the bandwith and the year of production of the car etc i did realize the 6E were not yet available and in any case bandwith should be the same as well as other electrical specs like resistence, impedence etc.

Only bad thing is the cable I had is made of 8 single wires, a little bit more rigid than the original multi wire.

This can mean shorter shelf life of the repair .... but at the moment works and i hope it will keep on doing that for a while.

Another good thing, i did realize where the on/off switch is placed, it is on the left, it can easily get losen and have a miscontact (mine was starting to do so), but can also be easily fixed.



I did a lot of pictures of the step-to step procedure for everything i did, cable replacing is NOT really easy if you have not the good equipment and a good maunality, but if you manage to open the screen and remove the cable (VERY easy) an electronic repairer can fix it quite easily if you were not so confident.

Ok, now there's the part where i do still need your help ....

Don't take joke of me too much, but even if now everything works fine I'm not able to remove the four 1287 key from the car stereo .... can somebody help me ?



Moreover, i still do have the trim damaged ... anyone knows where to take a new one ?


Cheers

Gyxx

P.S. I'll try to upload eveything ASAP, hope before monday, but don't know If I'll be able to repsect the timelines

 

[Anonymous]

Well done . I thankfully don't need to worry about this issue just now but am interested in what you've done for future reference.

The trim that surrounds the screen is part number 659344. RCZ Performance should be able to get one for you.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the 1287 key?

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks mjcuk2000 !

Solved the problems with the keys mod. 1287 utilized to detach the nav from the dashboard ... was very easy to unplug them sometimes easier things were the most difficult.



And thanks to the part number, I'll order in a while, already got the RCZ keyring form RCZ performance !

At the moment I've forgot the data from my imagashack acount , so I'll try to attach the picture il very low res to the forum.

First one is the label of the cable, maybe there's a hint to get the PUG code and reorder it !

Second is an image of the screen after removing the abs cover, just with a supermarket card . REALY easy and soft, not like the trim ! In red where the 6 torx were, in yellow the two clips that have to be removed by lifiting them with a flat screwdriver.

Third shot is inside the screen after removig the EM shiled. the video cable is the one in the middle. unplug it the remove the clips (4) and the left + canal (5) by pulling it out, then unscrew the cable block at right (6), then the 3 torx on the left t0 detach the flip flop engine (7) and remove the screen block from the dash and finally the cable with the left canal.

Will continue on next post due to attch limits

 

[Anonymous]

After having removed the flipfplo engine, you can take out the screen aprt from the dash part. With the screen alone you can be able to take away the cable and the left guide.

The connectors were quite easy to open, see instruction below the picture. But if you're not skilled, just bring to an electronic repaires and tell him to join 2 cm of the cable from the connector to a cat 5e/6e network cable 1m long.

Twisted pairs within original cable and connector were one next to the other, and were the following :

Blue/ Brown, Yellow/Green, Red/Orange, Gray/White.

I have joined them to the corresponding wires on the twisted pair 5E cable that i do own :

Blue/BlueWhite, GreenWhite/Green, OrangeWhite/Orange, BrownWhite/Brown.

Probably any other combination will work providing the fat that the twisted pairs were fullfileld, however this way I did copy also the quandrant setup of the original cable within my network cable, and most of the colors were copyed 1:1 to avoid confuion.

To produce a sharp work you do have to utilize a soldering station set at 320°C, and thermo retractable cable to cover the joints.

 

[Anonymous]

Unfortunately i did forget to take pictures of the cable surgery :d, but that cen be good, if you don't imagine how to do it you should not do it.



After replacing the cable you just have to reassemble everything in reverse order.

In picture 11 you'll see the bew cable withi the right block with the correct bending.

In picture 12 you'll see in red circle the connector of the on/off swith on the left side of the screen.

Hope this will help somebody else !

Ciao



Gyxx

 

[Anonymous]

What a fantastic effort to effect the repair. Hats off to you! I hope the repair is long lasting. At least now we have an understanding of the problem associated with the screen flicker. I am sure quite a lot of the cases recorded are as a result of cabling issues and it is a shame that Peugeot will not accept this and try to modify the unit to alleviate the problem once and for all. Ever thought of setting up a cottage industry repairing these units for RCZ owners, I am sure you would have plenty of customers as I don't think the problem is going to be resolved in the immediate future. Good luck! :thumbup:

 

[Anonymous]

Went to Peugeot this morning. They had it for an hour. Screen flickering etc. Apparently there are ten different screens and they don't know which one mine has. They need the car for three days and are going to replace the main screen.
One day to take it out then order the screen, then fit it on day two/three.

 

[Anonymous]

Quick reply from my side, with some considerations :

- It seems that there are two mayor problems concerning the screen and the cables : one regards right cable, carrying the video signals (my problems, fixed as you can read), and others concerning the left cable and the on/off switch.
- for the right cable, you've seen how to fix it, if not finding any other resources near you as worst case I can try to fix it (remember I do live in Italy, however). It is not the favorite option, but is still better than paying 1500 eur.
-what I've noticed after the repair is that the blue shift that was affecting recently the screen, the rare times it was was working properly, had completely disappeared. So a first clue of cable damage can be color shift.
- The left side On/Off switch should be serviceable, the plug at least it is, in case of doubts we can short circuit to have it as an always on.
- The left cable, coming from the dashboard and bringing signals to the unit, is divided into two segments : the one that goes to the unit from dashboard, and the one going inside the screen from below the unit. My suspect is that this is the cable Peugeot was answering about, since it is the only one connecting to the dashboard (the right one connects to the sat nav) and the one giving approximate fix since it does interact with the rotatory switch.
_ My suspect is that it is still possible to order the right side video network cable to PUG, as soon as I'll have some time I'll write rcz performance to ask about it, the trim and some led daylights for my little toy feline car.

I'll keep you posted, in the meanwhile my repair is still working perfectly (finger crossed).

Ciao, e

enjoy your RCZ int he weekend !!!!

;-)

Gyxx

 

[Anonymous]

They had it last Monday 0900hrs to see what new screen it would require. New screen ordered and fitted by 0930 Wed morning. All okay again.

 

[asphalt]

additional interesting information about repairing the cable yourself:

http://peugeot-rcz.forumactif.com/t1732-probleme-affichage-ecran-couleur-wipcom-3d

 

[Reepa]

Gyxx, you are a legend. Thanks for taking the time to document this. Asphalt, that link was also really useful.

I just completed a cat5e splice to both connectors and my screen flicker is now a thing of the past.

Upon inspection, the blue wire had snapped on the first bend from the screen unit under stress, it looks like the manufacturer may have not left enough slack on the loop causing it to be under tension when closed.

My repair job was pretty solid, and I've given the loop more slack this time, but if it ends up failing a second time, I'm pretty sure I can squeeze a small rj45 coupler inside the screen and one on the head unit connector. That way, its just a case of unplugging the standard cat5e cable and using a new one each time.

I'll do a write up if it comes to that and add to this resource.

 

[Jumper]

After having removed the flipfplo engine, you can take out the screen aprt from the dash part. With the screen alone you can be able to take away the cable and the left guide.

The connectors were quite easy to open, see instruction below the picture. But if you're not skilled, just bring to an electronic repaires and tell him to join 2 cm of the cable from the connector to a cat 5e/6e network cable 1m long.

Twisted pairs within original cable and connector were one next to the other, and were the following :

Blue/ Brown, Yellow/Green, Red/Orange, Gray/White.

I have joined them to the corresponding wires on the twisted pair 5E cable that i do own :

Blue/BlueWhite, GreenWhite/Green, OrangeWhite/Orange, BrownWhite/Brown.

Probably any other combination will work providing the fat that the twisted pairs were fullfileld, however this way I did copy also the quandrant setup of the original cable within my network cable, and most of the colors were copyed 1:1 to avoid confuion.

To produce a sharp work you do have to utilize a soldering station set at 320°C, and thermo retractable cable to cover the joints.

I have repaired my flickering sat nav today and would just like to say thanks for all the gen and pictures to help me on my way. :clap:

 

[Joemc1967]

For anyone suffering from this problem I have the cure , 2 hours and fairly technical , the removal of the pop up screen has been explained so I wont cover that .
The issue is simply the cable that enters through the right side of the lcd screen , this is held to tightly with a clamping bracket and cable tie , ther is not enough give , and the constant up and down motion twists the wiring , often breaking one or two ,exactly at the point of entry .
If your careful you can bare the outer sheath back and repair the wires ,the main cable can be seen when prising apart the back section of the screen ,here you will see its entry through the unit