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RCZ VVT Oil Soleniod 0016 code

Dedra1

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Hi folks, while waiting for rear ABS sensor 9674196180 to arrive, I thought I would ask about VVT Oil solenoid.
Along with the ABS fault, my OBD scanner found fault code 0016.
After a bit of research this code seems to be caused by a faulty/dirty VVT oil solenoid (possibly VVT electric motor)
Engine runs very smoothly & idles well (at the moment)
I have changed oil filter, oil & air filter
Fuel consumption is 32MPG (1.6THP automatic) Is this normal?
Only time hear timing chain is very slight rattle on cold start.
I decided to change oil solenoid (now that oil & filter have been changed).
Easier said than done....new oil solenoid is cheap at about £30....however its position at the top, back left of the engine (as you look into engine bay)
is a pain in the articles.
After removing turbo pipe etc you have to work blind. I used a mirror to check it was correct part I was trying to remove......only to discover it is
held in place by a poxy little hex screw.
Trying to get purchase on this screw to remove it is a double pain in the articles & so far I have not managed to remove it.
Has anyone any ideas?
Also worried that once screw is removed, pulling solenoid out may cause it to snap with part of it remaining in situ.
Any ideas on how to avoid that?
The old saying that "if it ain't broke don't fix it springs to mind" what with the car seemingly running well...however I need to get rid of warning lights
to pass the manufacturers' sponsored "MOT" test.
I am going to change the oil & filter again to see if even cleaner oil running through the VVT oil soleniod may help.
I have tried clearing the fault (iCarsoft scanner) but the little blighter keeps coming back.
Any help appreciated
All the best
 

neilgsxr69

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I’m sure there’s a guide on YouTube to remove this but on the Mini Cooper S engine which is the same as in the rcz 👍
 

Dedra1

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Thanks for info. Will check this out.
Was out in RC today and it was running like a dream with plenty of power (for it)….no strange noises...
However roads in Ayrshire where wet this morning & the RC sure does like to lose grip on roundabouts....to say the least.
Hopefully this down to very cheap Chinese tyres (though they are as new)) & lack of ESP etc!
Having said that I was also out in a brand new Honda CRV (work car) with Bridgestone tyres (no doubt made in China as well) & it
was skidding badly at roundabouts as well (it is supposedly AWD 4x4). Our work runs a fleet of CRVs' & they all skid when you least expect
it on wet/damp roads.
And I was going slowly on approach/exit...
Any more hints n tips re oil soleniod gratefully received
cheers
 

Pedro

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0016= Crankshaft position -Camshaft position correlation Bank 1 sensor A ?
 

boatdriver

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0016= Crankshaft position -Camshaft position correlation Bank 1 sensor A ?
I finally got rid of 0016 by replacing the timing chain. I didn't have a rattle but decided to bite the bullet and have the chain replaced.
 

Dedra1

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Yes same code. Don't think you needed to replace timing chain. Oil solenoid valve seems to be main culprit, possibly VVT electric motor jams...
also timing chain tensioner, which screws in right beside VVT oil solenoid.(again very cheap item to replace)
Also plastic chain guides, which tensioner pushes into, wear out, as well as top chain plastic guide that wears out very quickly.
These plastic guides are very cheap with the top chain guide being fairly easy to change.
As well as various pulleys etc
So there are lots of items to replace potentially before changing the timing chain.
If there was a lot chain rattling, bad idling & running then I would go for chain change.
The dealers etc have got us all paranoid about timing chains, belts etc...big pay day for them when they are changed.......
Did nearly 100 miles today with RC, mostly motorway, & it was pulling well, sounding good, which is strange when engine
management light is on and it has 0016 code...??? MPG was 33.5...is this ok or bad for 1.6 THP automatic on long run?
Starting to wonder if OBD system in car is giving out correct codes... there is a slightly "sweet" smell coming from exhaust which makes
me think car is running "lean", too much fuel being burnt, also exhaust tips are have black carbon forming on them.
Could the two exhaust O2 sensors (lambda probes) be faulty? Or is this sympton of bad VVT oil soleniod affecting timing.
Any ideas?
Anyway, intend to change oil & filter again as soon as new filter arrives ( current oil/filter has only done about 300 miles)
And change oil soleniod valve.
Checked tyres pressures this morning, something I should have done as soon as I got car, only to discover that front left was 42psi, Fr 31psi, BL 32psi & BR 43psi!!!!
This may explain the well dodgy handling on damp roundabouts!!!!
I should have checked the tyre pressures straight away & this shows why they should be checked!!!
Correct pressure, 33psi at front & 28psi at back...shows how bad they were.
Doh!!!!
Thanks for advice
All the best
 

Pedro

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If the Lambda sensors are at fault you may get depolution fault codes from the ECU which usually points to combustion issues (timing) the Carbon(sooty deposits) you mention may point to running to rich ?
What oil are you using Total Ineo 5.30 low saps 3 is one I would recommend if the mileage is high but some prefer 0.30 but not really necessary in UK climate
Not sure you need to change oil again as the Viscosity is strong enough with what you have in the Engine already unless its wrong type ?
 

Dedra1

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Hi, yes you are right. I meant to say I thought engine was running rich not lean. Too much fuel being used which may account for MPG.
However I don't know what the real life MPG for my 1.6THP automatic is......
Oil I put in is Fully synthetic 5/30 low saps etc however as I have no history for car I thought I would change oil again,
bit like a flush out. Can only do it good....Again cheap & easy to do.
Another job I intend to do is change the spark plugs, this will also give me a clue as to how engine is running by the colour of the electrodes.
Only engine management code showing is 0016. I have changed the cam shaft sensor, and have a new crankshaft ready to put in
but I think that the sensors are doing their job correctly, again I suspect we are pushed by garages etc into thinking that sensors are faulty
when in fact they are fine.....must be huge business in replacement sensors.
The RC has only covered 73kmiles which I 'm pretty sure is correct due to condition of underneath, the interior, etc. The engine bay is really newish looking
with no rust.
I also have have a couple of other codes, which I need to write down. One is to do with the BSI......All electrics & guages seem to be fine so I'm
wondering if this have affected the OBD system. I will look at this when I have time. I also have VX Antara I'm working with engine mangement issues!!
And a 2012 Merc c220 which seems have to developed ropey wrong sensor issues, ie bonnet open, when it is not, washer bottle empty, when it is not, etc etc
All VERY VERY annoying.
The Pug is the daily driver at the moment & is a very enjoyable, specially now I have sorted the tyre pressures!!!
Also like the size of boot which is huge compared to most cars of this type, especially when you fold the back seats down.
Good practical sports car
 

Jumper

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Thanks for info. Will check this out.
Was out in RC today and it was running like a dream with plenty of power (for it)….no strange noises...
However roads in Ayrshire where wet this morning & the RC sure does like to lose grip on roundabouts....to say the least.
Hopefully this down to very cheap Chinese tyres (though they are as new)) & lack of ESP etc!
Having said that I was also out in a brand new Honda CRV (work car) with Bridgestone tyres (no doubt made in China as well) & it
was skidding badly at roundabouts as well (it is supposedly AWD 4x4). Our work runs a fleet of CRVs' & they all skid when you least expect
it on wet/damp roads.
And I was going slowly on approach/exit...
Any more hints n tips re oil soleniod gratefully received
cheers
I don't know if you have finished that job yet as Iv'e only just seen it on here? Anyway, I've changed the VVT soleniod on a 156 because mine was causing an annoying
oil leak. During lockdown on my rest days from work I decided do a few upgrades and search out the oil leak. So I took off the rocker cover to check under there for leaks and weak seals but nothing so I replaced it with a new gasket. Then I changed the Timing chain tensioner as the leak was in that area. Took it out for a test drive used it around town for shopping and after a week the bloody oil leak re appeared ! I could still see oil in the same area and thought it's got to be that VVT soleniod as there is nothing else up in that corner of the engine.

At this point I bought an Endescope USB camera off Ebay and borrowed a long mechanics magnet tool. Took the inlet off the throttle body (what a pain that is) then used the camera on my phone to locate the VVT bolt. After trial and error I found that a 27Torx fits it perfectly. Once undone leave it there and pull it out with the long magnet. Once you have the bolt out unplug it then the solenoid just pulls out its a bit stiff wiggle it about and if you must get pair extra long long nose pliers and yank it out. The seal was poor on mine compared to the new one. The new one just pushes in and re attach the bolt. A tip at this point is change the Torx bolt for a 10mm bolt thats what I did so it would be easy to get back in with a long socket. All good up to now until, I dropped the 10mm bolt and lost it! So I had to superglue the Torx bolt to the torx bit to stop it fall off when I put it back in.

I wouldnt wish that VVT job on my worse enemy its a royal pain in the arse but all done now and cured the oil leak AT LAST :) Ive got pictures but apparantly you have to re size them to pop them on here! Whats that all about? Anyway message me your email and Ill send if you want.
 

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Well done that's saved you some money on garage bills "Perseverance is one of mankind's greatest Achievements" !;)👍
 

Jumper

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Well done that's saved you some money on garage bills "Perseverance is one of mankind's greatest Achievements" !;)👍
Thanks Pedro. On my long weekends off for five days I have nothing else to do so I thought right, that thing is coming out come hell or high water !
A replacement is only £25 and it idels a lot better now. It begs the question..........I wonder how many people have had the HPFP replaced by a garage trying to sort out the erratc idle when it could have been the VVT soleniod the filters on mine were full of gunged up oil definately not working properly besides leaking.
As a side note. Ive learned more about my engine from the North American Mini group than anywhere else on the internet. Its worth joining.
 

Dedra1

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I don't know if you have finished that job yet as Iv'e only just seen it on here? Anyway, I've changed the VVT soleniod on a 156 because mine was causing an annoying
oil leak. During lockdown on my rest days from work I decided do a few upgrades and search out the oil leak. So I took off the rocker cover to check under there for leaks and weak seals but nothing so I replaced it with a new gasket. Then I changed the Timing chain tensioner as the leak was in that area. Took it out for a test drive used it around town for shopping and after a week the bloody oil leak re appeared ! I could still see oil in the same area and thought it's got to be that VVT soleniod as there is nothing else up in that corner of the engine.

At this point I bought an Endescope USB camera off Ebay and borrowed a long mechanics magnet tool. Took the inlet off the throttle body (what a pain that is) then used the camera on my phone to locate the VVT bolt. After trial and error I found that a 27Torx fits it perfectly. Once undone leave it there and pull it out with the long magnet. Once you have the bolt out unplug it then the solenoid just pulls out its a bit stiff wiggle it about and if you must get pair extra long long nose pliers and yank it out. The seal was poor on mine compared to the new one. The new one just pushes in and re attach the bolt. A tip at this point is change the Torx bolt for a 10mm bolt thats what I did so it would be easy to get back in with a long socket. All good up to now until, I dropped the 10mm bolt and lost it! So I had to superglue the Torx bolt to the torx bit to stop it fall off when I put it back in.

I wouldnt wish that VVT job on my worse enemy its a royal pain in the arse but all done now and cured the oil leak AT LAST :) Ive got pictures but apparantly you have to re size them to pop them on here! Whats that all about? Anyway message me your email and Ill send if you want.
 

DKZ5745

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This new site isn’t as picky as the old one when it comes to photos so you might be ok to just stick them on 🤔
 

Dedra1

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Hi, thanks for reply. I ve had 2 goes at getting the **** star screw out, with the
 

Dedra1

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Hi, thanks for reply re VVT oil solenoid. I ve had 2 goes at getting the star screw out & on 2nd attempt I lost the star tool down the back of the engine, closely
followed by the magnet (which broke off) when I tried to find it......I ve had to wait for some new tools to arrive & cooler weather(!!) before I make third attempt.
I too have a lot of oil splattered about the solenoid area. Wonder if the solenoid is the culprit as well.
I am concerned the star screw will round if I cant get a good fit & enough purchase to unscrew it, any tips?
Good idea to change screw for 10mm bolt, Peugeot/BMW should have down that in the first place!!
I was also thinking of changing the timing chain tensioner...is it as easy as just unscrewing the old one & screwing the new one back in?
Still enjoying using the car and have now used the "manual" part of the auto box. It is very smooth with quick changes....Good fun....
Thanks again, I will let you know how I get on...
 

Jumper

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Hi, thanks for reply re VVT oil solenoid. I ve had 2 goes at getting the star screw out & on 2nd attempt I lost the star tool down the back of the engine, closely
followed by the magnet (which broke off) when I tried to find it......I ve had to wait for some new tools to arrive & cooler weather(!!) before I make third attempt.
I too have a lot of oil splattered about the solenoid area. Wonder if the solenoid is the culprit as well.
I am concerned the star screw will round if I cant get a good fit & enough purchase to unscrew it, any tips?
Good idea to change screw for 10mm bolt, Peugeot/BMW should have down that in the first place!!
I was also thinking of changing the timing chain tensioner...is it as easy as just unscrewing the old one & screwing the new one back in?
Still enjoying using the car and have now used the "manual" part of the auto box. It is very smooth with quick changes....Good fun....
Thanks again, I will let you know how I get on...
Are you using a size 27Torx bit? You need to use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a bar around 3 to 4 inches long. To stop your torx bit from falling off gaffer tape the bit to the bar ratchet and make sure its in the bolt with a camera before you start to turn it loose. I'm not saying its easy its not, its awkward as hell trying to get the bit in the bolt and turn it at the same time. Just so you know my VVT did NOT throw up an engine management light no symtoms of any kind whatsoever other than leaking oil all over the back of the engine! Are you sure you really need to change it? I didnt come across anyone else researching who had had to change it.


The seal had gone on my VVT the new one is a lot thicker. My car ran fine but I have noticed a more settled idle since replacing it and the oil leak stopped. You will have to get the flywheel locking tool to do the tensioner. Just to make sure nothing moves whilst replacing it. I borrowed one it fits into the high hole on the bell houseing and you have to turn the engine with big socket on the crank bolt to get the locking tool in the hole thats another story!
 

Dedra1

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Are you using a size 27Torx bit? You need to use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a bar around 3 to 4 inches long. To stop your torx bit from falling off gaffer tape the bit to the bar ratchet and make sure its in the bolt with a camera before you start to turn it loose. I'm not saying its easy its not, its awkward as hell trying to get the bit in the bolt and turn it at the same time. Just so you know my VVT did NOT throw up an engine management light no symtoms of any kind whatsoever other than leaking oil all over the back of the engine! Are you sure you really need to change it? I didnt come across anyone else researching who had had to change it.


The seal had gone on my VVT the new one is a lot thicker. My car ran fine but I have noticed a more settled idle since replacing it and the oil leak stopped. You will have to get the flywheel locking tool to do the tensioner. Just to make sure nothing moves whilst replacing it. I borrowed one it fits into the high hole on the bell houseing and you have to turn the engine with big socket on the crank bolt to get the locking tool in the hole thats another story!
 

Dedra1

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Hi yes I used T27 bit. I used a mirror with plenty of light to identify screw postion. You are not joking about it being a son of B**** to do!! Some of
research I did re fault P0016 seemed to point towards VVT oil solenoid as it has to do with timing chain lubrication. Also VVT electic motor or tensioner...
or if I'm really lucky all three & the timing chain. Strange thing is car drives really well with plenty of power, smooth, constant idling, fuel economy is about right
(got 33.9 MPG today). Only hear very slight chain rattle on cold start, with noise disappearing quickly as oil circulates. There is quite a lot oil behind and round where
solenoid is....With car's age (2010) & mileage (73 kmiles) & NO service history I think it good idea to change (or even clean VVT solenoid), & tensioner etc.
I have already changed oil/filter & will change them again this week. (cheap & easy to do)
Thanks for tip re taping torx bit on.
cheers
 

Jumper

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Hi yes I used T27 bit. I used a mirror with plenty of light to identify screw postion. You are not joking about it being a son of B**** to do!! Some of
research I did re fault P0016 seemed to point towards VVT oil solenoid as it has to do with timing chain lubrication. Also VVT electic motor or tensioner...
or if I'm really lucky all three & the timing chain. Strange thing is car drives really well with plenty of power, smooth, constant idling, fuel economy is about right
(got 33.9 MPG today). Only hear very slight chain rattle on cold start, with noise disappearing quickly as oil circulates. There is quite a lot oil behind and round where
solenoid is....With car's age (2010) & mileage (73 kmiles) & NO service history I think it good idea to change (or even clean VVT solenoid), & tensioner etc.
I have already changed oil/filter & will change them again this week. (cheap & easy to do)
Thanks for tip re taping torx bit on.
cheers
I'm no expert but if you have a rattle on start up get the timing chain replaced. Whilst doing that they will change the Tensioner and ask them to change the VVT solenoid as well. I doubt the rattle will go after changing the VVT. Dont bother trying to clean the VVT if you do get it out. The seal will be worn and the gunge is inside the unit.
A quick fix is change the Tensioner see if that improves things it could even be loose if you have oil around it.
If you try to tighten the tensioner bolt apparantly it can make things worse by damaging the washer ring. Change that first they are £30 and require a 27mm socket a half inch drive socket and brute force! You can buy a flywheel locking tool or kit to hold eveything in place before you do it. Or you can buy the cam lock kit to hold the cams in place. The locking kit is fitted on the cams after you take the rocker cover off.
 
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