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RCZ 200 EP6 CDTX :- VVT Solenoid

Blackcapbob

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Hello Guys and Gals, Having changed the thermostat on my wife's RCZ earlier this month and conducted a BSI reset all the lingering fault codes disappeared and that was my first installment of life under the bonnet of an RCZ completed.

3 days ago she returned from work parked on the drive which is a god send. She intended to go to the gym, 10 minutes later she returned to her car and it wouldn't start, my second installment of Life under the bonnet of an RCZ was / is underway. On turning the key it made a solitary click which sounded like it was coming from the starter motor, I checked the battery, it was reading 12.4v which I have charged and is now appears healthier at over 13.1v in a cold garage, replaced the battery and the same single click was heard, in my Hillman Imp days that ment knackered starter motor fast forward 40 years and it means much much more.

My iCarsoft diagnostic tool says coherence fault energising the starter, car electrics are not my forte so a car electrician with a laptop has been and scanned the car, he came up with fault codes P1062 and P1067 we have been able to establish with grazed knuckles that the VVT Solenoid has an open circuit now I thought that the Peugeot engineers were having as laugh with the 6 branched thermostat but the location of the VVT solenoid is off the charts.

With the use of a mirror and torch the nut locating the solenoid was located T27 a bit every one has !!! was found and with the dexterity of a gynecologist the bolt has been loosened and fished out from its recess, having read previous post on here all that is needed is a backwards and forwards rocking motion and the solenoid slides out. Now my hands are sore and bruised and the solenoid remains stuck fast.

Can some kind sole on here tell me, could the solenoid be held in somehow internally or is it 7 years of mating with the engine makes it reluctant to release its grip and that the backwards forwards action will eventually release its grip...........................oh to have kids hands with the strength of Rambo.

Take care all, as before any advise is gratefully received. Cheer's Bob
 

Jumper

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IMG_20200521_091247039.jpg

Yeah not an easy job worst Ive done on the Z up to now. As long as you have that 27torx bolt out nothing else holds it in other than the crappy green seal you can see on my old one. You may also notice two of the filters were missing on mine compared to the new one. I used a Ferrex Endescopy camera to see the bolt. A good tip is to repalce that 27torx bolt with a 10mm regular bolt so it doesnt slip from torx tip when putting it back in. Just pull the bugger backwards towards the bulkhead and it will come out no problem. Just so you know I changed mine with no code errors because I was doing the Timing Chain Tensioner and as this was right next to it I decided in my wisdon to replace that as well ! Because I had an annoying oil leak and these two parts being replaced sorted that out.
 

Jumper

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IMG_20200503_175248780.jpg
As you can see here Ive already taken the Timing Chain Tensioner out and the VVT soleniod is to the upper left of it leaking oil all over my engine. After both being replaced the performance was oustanding and tick over idle very smooth and constant. I wonder how many owners have had a timing chain or High Pressure Fuel pump replaced when these two items could be the cause? But I had no error codes I just did this as part of my summer service during the first lockdown including brakes, rocker cover gasket, engine and oil filter. Good luck any other issues just message me.
 

Jumper

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IMG_20200521_091734612_HDR.jpg

This is a close up of my VVT solenoid. You can clearly see the green seal on the old one is worn and thinner (leaking oil) plus the mesh filter has been destroyed on the old one in two places. My car is a 156 with 60K on it. So anyone on here with a similair car and miles should get this done right away before the mesh dissapears completely and renders the VVT useless for power and rough idle.
 

Verminator

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Hi jumper
very good post with photos will help out many RCZers on forum...
Drive safe and stay lucky 🍀
Les n Co
 

Blackcapbob

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Hi Jumper, Thanks for the post and your photographs, I am sure its just the cramp space and big hands thats causing the problem, it is moving side to side but I just cant break it free.

I may have to get a jubilee clip over the top of the casing, that way I will be able to get more leverage from above and rearwards, Im sure it will come out now I know that I cant do any damage internally .............but not today its going to be a wash out in dear old Cumbria for a change, rain rain and more rain.

Thanks again, this is a good site for an epic little car a future classic I reckon. Cheers Bob
 

Pedro

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View attachment 10593
As you can see here Ive already taken the Timing Chain Tensioner out and the VVT soleniod is to the upper left of it leaking oil all over my engine. After both being replaced the performance was oustanding and tick over idle very smooth and constant. I wonder how many owners have had a timing chain or High Pressure Fuel pump replaced when these two items could be the cause? But I had no error codes I just did this as part of my summer service during the first lockdown including brakes, rocker cover gasket, engine and oil filter. Good luck any other issues just message me.
Hi Jumper just a query regarding when you removed the Chain Tensioner did you lock the flywheel ? I had mine done under a warranty & the lad who did it was off when I picked it up but one of the other Techs said he locked the Engine timing before he took it out ?
 

Jumper

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Hi Jumper just a query regarding when you removed the Chain Tensioner did you lock the flywheel ? I had mine done under a warranty & the lad who did it was off when I picked it up but one of the other Techs said he locked the Engine timing before he took it out ?
Yes I did. I didnt lock the Cams just the fly wheel through the top hole in the casing. Lots of fly wheel tools on the internet but I borrowed one from a friend of mine who has a mini. You have to turn the Crankshaft with a huge socket to find the hole so basically IMG_20200503_174832453.jpgit's really a two man job. My son helped me with it otherwise your working blind. As you can see from the picture the new one has new improved washer. The old one had lost a lot of spring tension where as the new one is very hard to compress with your hand.
 

Pedro

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Thanks Jumper I had an inkling you had to lock them up on the Flywheel
Regards
Geoff
 

Pedro

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View attachment 10593
As you can see here Ive already taken the Timing Chain Tensioner out and the VVT soleniod is to the upper left of it leaking oil all over my engine. After both being replaced the performance was oustanding and tick over idle very smooth and constant. I wonder how many owners have had a timing chain or High Pressure Fuel pump replaced when these two items could be the cause? But I had no error codes I just did this as part of my summer service during the first lockdown including brakes, rocker cover gasket, engine and oil filter. Good luck any other issues just message me.
Great Job getting that out & not much room down the back 👌👍
 

Blackcapbob

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Hello Guys and Gals,

The saga goes on, I was able to remove the VVT solenoid by using a jubilee clip tightened on the end of the solenoid casing, I used the clip as a point to leaver it out against a conveniently placed manifold stud, it came out first time with a distinct pop. In my case it would not have come out with just waggling it. Replacement with the new solenoid was reasonably straight forward with the use of a mirror.

When reassembled I went to start the car and the same single click was heard so it wasn’t the solenoid stopping the starting it may well have needed changed but isn’t the main issue.

I updated the Auto electrician asking him to come back and clear any codes and rescan the car and zero response, won’t answer my calls or texts, unprofessional w……...

I have used my iCarsoft scanner to reset the faults and it’s now showing only 0303 which I believe is a misfire on no3 cylinder which is new and as the car isn’t running I’m not sure how it knows and could well be a hoax code this appears in the BSI folder.

The interesting thing is the cars display instantly comes up with ‘Economy Mode Active’ when the ignition is switched on, the battery is brand new and showing 12.98v when checked so healthy.

I have conducted several BSI resets and the radio works and windows will come down now but will not start, just the click.

Any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers Bob.
 

Pedro

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Starter Motor is as you say the usual culprit the economy mode is the system that ensures there is enough power to start the car & keep the ECU/BSI initialised the other power protection which is inbuilt is the "Load Management Mode" which works in conjunction with Economy
Disconnect the Battery leave it for 5 Mins the reconnect then see if it starts if it clicks again it may be loss of power on the loop somewhere or the Starter or Alternator could be the issue
 

Pedro

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Hello Guys and Gals,

The saga goes on, I was able to remove the VVT solenoid by using a jubilee clip tightened on the end of the solenoid casing, I used the clip as a point to leaver it out against a conveniently placed manifold stud, it came out first time with a distinct pop. In my case it would not have come out with just waggling it. Replacement with the new solenoid was reasonably straight forward with the use of a mirror.

When reassembled I went to start the car and the same single click was heard so it wasn’t the solenoid stopping the starting it may well have needed changed but isn’t the main issue.

I updated the Auto electrician asking him to come back and clear any codes and rescan the car and zero response, won’t answer my calls or texts, unprofessional w……...

I have used my iCarsoft scanner to reset the faults and it’s now showing only 0303 which I believe is a misfire on no3 cylinder which is new and as the car isn’t running I’m not sure how it knows and could well be a hoax code this appears in the BSI folder.

The interesting thing is the cars display instantly comes up with ‘Economy Mode Active’ when the ignition is switched on, the battery is brand new and showing 12.98v when checked so healthy.

I have conducted several BSI resets and the radio works and windows will come down now but will not start, just the click.

Any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers Bob.
Crank position sensor will throw up a misfire if plugs & coil packs are ok & this sensor can cause the Engine to stall as the signal to the ECU is cut off & Engine won't start
 

neilgsxr69

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There have been a few reported cases of the battery control module (I think that’s what it’s called?) failing it’s part of the battery connection unit it gives the same symptoms
 

Blackcapbob

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Hi Guys and Gals,

I woke this morning and had obviously been thinking this issue over whilst asleep.

I am sure that the issue is due to the 'Economy Mode Active' issue that has been the one constant, this initially appeared after the thermostat was replaced, and before the battery was replaced, a couple of BSI resets later the car started, was run for a few days and then wouldn't start after my wife had returned from work. She had only been out of the car ten minutes and it wouldn't start and hasnt moved since. The car up to me replacing the thermostat had run perfectly starting on the button and running smoothly.

Since the none starting issue I have replaced the battery, starter and VVT solenoid........almost a new car, now lets get back to basics.

My thoughts are that whatever monitors the battery and hence updates the ECU with the 'Economy Mode Active' dash message,could be defective. I think Neilgsxr69 and I have the same point, if the battery control module isn't telling the ECU that there is enough power in the battery albeit a new battery with 12.98v has been fitted then could it be that the battery control module is faulty and the scanners are not able to pick this up, with 12.98v on supply from the battery there is more than enough to start the car, the starter is not being engaged and is new.


IMG_5537.JPG
Is this the Battery Control Module or someone know its correct title as obviously this has been disconnected several times over the last few weeks, the connector seats well and the orange clip engages.

Any suggestions please, Cheers Bob
 

neilgsxr69

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Hi Bob that’s the one I’m talking about, I have one I took off a breaker as a spare, I believe they’re quite expensive to buy new like £400 expensive!
 

Pedro

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Hi Guys and Gals,

I woke this morning and had obviously been thinking this issue over whilst asleep.

I am sure that the issue is due to the 'Economy Mode Active' issue that has been the one constant, this initially appeared after the thermostat was replaced, and before the battery was replaced, a couple of BSI resets later the car started, was run for a few days and then wouldn't start after my wife had returned from work. She had only been out of the car ten minutes and it wouldn't start and hasnt moved since. The car up to me replacing the thermostat had run perfectly starting on the button and running smoothly.

Since the none starting issue I have replaced the battery, starter and VVT solenoid........almost a new car, now lets get back to basics.

My thoughts are that whatever monitors the battery and hence updates the ECU with the 'Economy Mode Active' dash message,could be defective. I think Neilgsxr69 and I have the same point, if the battery control module isn't telling the ECU that there is enough power in the battery albeit a new battery with 12.98v has been fitted then could it be that the battery control module is faulty and the scanners are not able to pick this up, with 12.98v on supply from the battery there is more than enough to start the car, the starter is not being engaged and is new.


View attachment 10616
Is this the Battery Control Module or someone know its correct title as obviously this has been disconnected several times over the last few weeks, the connector seats well and the orange clip engages.

Any suggestions please, Cheers Bob
Hi Bob sorry to hear your still having problems regarding the Economy Mode but this will not stop the car starting its there to stop other ancillary systems from taking power from the Battery when the load is insufficient for everything to function correctly Now I could write you a book of where to start looking but try this old trick Put the key in the ignition & attempt to start the car next turn the key to OFF position & leave the Key in the ignition open the drivers door the car will beep possibly 3 times but check again the key is in OFF position if it doesn't beep after you attempted to start the car & opened the door with keys in the ignition then maybe its lost the key code it can happen when you change over batteries & since you have disconnected a few times this may have caused a BSI issue
 
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