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Jacking up an RCZ

Kenno Wenno

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I always support the front under the track control arms with axle stands I used wood in the position shown by Tianorth but that is a box section which are prone to distorting under load as its function is only to strengthen the floor pan & not classed for load bearing when lifting the car
Hey Pedro, that's great advice. Could you show us a photo. I think if we all have a "best practice" to protect our car's underside that would be invaluable.
 

Kenno Wenno

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Hi there and welcome to the forum and nice RCZ you have got yourself there.
You can fit a 19" spare wheel in the tyre well but it is a bit tight you may need to take a little air out to get it in but worth while having a spare wheel on board.
Bit of advice is to get 3 to 4 meters of underlay from a carpet shop cut around the tyre and sit the piece in the tyre well then put the wheel in face down then you can put Jack and tools in the wheel padded as not to damage your wheel. The wheel will stand up about 30mm so with the piece cut out for the wheel you will need to cut two more and cut to fit the boot place these in the boot area and all will be level so that you can put the boot liner back in and won't rock uneven...
Hope this helps you out....
Drive safe and stay lucky 🍀
Les n Co
Hey Verminator!

Really grateful and thanks for those kind words re my RCZ. It's done 51K miles, in MINT CONDITION and has been regularly serviced by a lady who totally respected the RCZ. I'm delighted and thrilled every time I drive my Red Carbon. It's stunningly beautiful machine.

Re your response, it the underlay something you've done as it sounds perfect. Can you share a photo please.

Ken
 

Pedro

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Hey Pedro, that's great advice. Could you show us a photo. I think if we all have a "best practice" to protect our car's underside that would be invaluable.
I don't have any pics at present but I place the stand under the longest part of the arm bolted into the chassis not under the ball joint positions
 

KMG

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Will RCZ owners please save this post so you can refer to it at a later time if required, or if a garage is to jack up your car!
*********************************************

I've had the opportunity to remove the wheel, so I decided to document the way I securely lift and support the car.

This will help if anyone want to avoid damaging their jacking points.



1) To be able to put the jack and block of wood under the car I had to raise the height of the car by driving on to some blocks of wood.




2) Place the block of wood across the structural boxes inboard of the jacking point. Support the block of wood with the jack.




3) Raise the car and place axle stand at other end of wood.
The block of wood is about 3" × 2" × 14".




4) The jack can now be removed, but before I did I supported the rear wheel with a couple of blocks of wood.




The car was supported on the axle stand for a week.

When putting back on the ground don't forget to put the blocks under the front tyre, otherwise you can't get the jack/wood out.
So, I've had my RCZ for a couple of months, and I don't have a jack, will probably ring the AA if I were to need a wheel change.
Out of interest though, does the jack that is specific to the car have a unique shape or fitting that mates with the car's jacking point?
Looking under the car, there is a metal protrusion and immediately behind this is a round hole, then a little further in, a second hole. Everything is solid. Which is the 'jacking point'? The metal protrusion or the hole or holes or a mixture of both?
Thanks,
Kevin
 

lfe

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So, I've had my RCZ for a couple of months, and I don't have a jack, will probably ring the AA if I were to need a wheel change.
Out of interest though, does the jack that is specific to the car have a unique shape or fitting that mates with the car's jacking point?
Looking under the car, there is a metal protrusion and immediately behind this is a round hole, then a little further in, a second hole. Everything is solid. Which is the 'jacking point'? The metal protrusion or the hole or holes or a mixture of both?
Thanks,
Kevin
With the U-shaped jack head resting longitudinally on both sides of the protrusion, that is, with the jack just centered on the protrusion.

And of course with the car well braked and never on a slope.

It is precisely in the 4 protrusions where they put the 4 arms of the car lifter in the garages.
 

Pepe Le Peu

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Hi there and welcome to the forum and nice RCZ you have got yourself there.
You can fit a 19" spare wheel in the tyre well but it is a bit tight you may need to take a little air out to get it in but worth while having a spare wheel on board.
Bit of advice is to get 3 to 4 meters of underlay from a carpet shop cut around the tyre and sit the piece in the tyre well then put the wheel in face down then you can put Jack and tools in the wheel padded as not to damage your wheel. The wheel will stand up about 30mm so with the piece cut out for the wheel you will need to cut two more and cut to fit the boot place these in the boot area and all will be level so that you can put the boot liner back in and won't rock uneven...
Hope this helps you out....
Drive safe and stay lucky 🍀
Les n Co
There's a much better solution than this so you don't need to worry about taking air out of the spare to get it in the wheel well or having to pump it back up when you need to use it. Just stick a 225/40R19 tyre on the rim instead of the 235 and you're good to go. It makes negligible difference to the circumference and it's totally safe to use on a 19 x 8.5 inch rim. I also fitted the standard Peugeot tool kit but had to modify the plastic screw-down piece to make the thread longer as the 19" rim sits higher than the space saver it would normally be used for. I just used a water tank adaptor from the hardware and superglued it together but it was a tight fit anyway so probably was overkill. I also had to purchase the plastic part (#7603N6) that clips into the bottom plate in the wheel well, which the plastic screw locks into. Pics attached.
 

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Pepe Le Peu

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I got the toolkit with all the bits including the plastic ring and thread from a local wrecker. The thread needed to be extended by 20mm to bite into the plastic plate and I did that by cutting the thread and inserting the ends into a rain water tank connector that was a good tight fit around the plastic thread and gluing them.
No wrecker had the plastic spare wheel fixing plate so I bought it here for about 7 Euros:

it clips directly onto the metal plate at the bottom of the RCZ spare wheel well and It works a treat. At some point they obviously had the idea of including a spare wheel rather than that useless pump up kit.

There’s a polystyrene place near me and I’m also getting a hard auto grade polystyrene base made to raise the area around the spare by about 25-30mm, which will be contoured to fit. They do that pretty cheap actually. Yea I’m a bit OCD with this stuff, but this is an enthusiast’s forum right? I made a template of that in case it’s useful to anyone else, pic attached. I may need to trim some of it to fit exactly but it’s a good start.. cheers
 

Pepe Le Peu

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I got the toolkit with all the bits including the plastic ring and thread from a local wrecker. The thread needed to be extended by 20mm to bite into the plastic plate and I did that by cutting the thread and inserting the ends into a rain water tank connector that was a good tight fit around the plastic thread and gluing them.
No wrecker had the plastic spare wheel fixing plate so I bought it here for about 7 Euros:

it clips directly onto the metal plate at the bottom of the RCZ spare wheel well and It works a treat. At some point they obviously had the idea of including a spare wheel rather than that useless pump up kit.

There’s a polystyrene place near me and I’m also getting a hard auto grade polystyrene base made to raise the area around the spare by about 25-30mm, which will be contoured to fit. They do that pretty cheap actually. Yea I’m a bit OCD with this stuff, but this is an enthusiast’s forum right? I made a template of that in case it’s useful to anyone else, pic attached. I may need to trim some of it to fit exactly but it’s a good start.. cheers
Here’s the pic of the boot area contour..
 

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