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Drivers window

TL17

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Hi all

I am a bit stumped at moment. Drivers window goes down but not up. In fact started to go down by itself in fits and starts so had a thought it might be anti-pinch kicking in. However that stopped and now only down, nil up, no relay noise when trying up in small control unit attached to motor either.

I have dismounted regulator unit from car, taken a look. Was a bit of water in motor, but no corrosion from that. Dried, cleaned. Ran motor manually both ways on the bench with controller unit popped out (ie direct supply to motor contacts) and regulator goes up and down smoothly.

Swapped controller with unit from passenger door motor (identical) but same - down but not up.

Fitted spare door switch unit, same problem, down but not up. No glass fitted and regulator outside door so no real load.

Ran Diagbox and can see that switch is working ie Diagbox notes actuation of door window switch.

In fact when I run the actuator in Diagbox it opens closes passenger window fine, and also seems to think it’s done same on drivers side which not!

Any ideas?
 

TL17

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Ah yes - BSI reset carried out a few times. Nil.
 

TL17

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Hi all, hope keeping well in these times. A negative update - now passenger window is fully down and will not rise. Diagbox shows switch is activating, as it does for drivers side, I can hear relay on motor click for down, but not for up. Both motors work up and down when manually powered off the car. I am at a loss what to look at next - something clearly blocking activation but I cannot see anything in Diagbox to reset anything. BSI reset carried out. One Can error 001 on Diagbox for window controller- doesn’t tell me much. So - summary - both windows down and will not rise. Car outside. Not great combo!
 

TL17

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Update - BSI reset once more - passenger window managed to inch up to top, reset with 5 second rule and now up-down no problems. One step forwards. Drivers window still no go so as an illustration here attached short demo - turns fine one way (lowering) but after short jolt will not turn the other way. WILL turn if fed directly on the bench and motor is very free in both directions as is gearbox both directions. Strange one. Ok, cannot attach film it seems - no worries - but any ideas where to look next?
 

Pedro

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If both motors are powered up as normal on the car then it must be a relay/switch problem as I assume the command is going to the relays from the switches or there is a power loss (drop off) in the wiring somewhere the other thing is the issue with water ingress which usually means a death sentence on electrics in these cars there were a lot of faults relating to the boot locks with water contamination
 

TL17

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Hi Pedro, thanks for coming back. I can see the command from the switch via Diagbox - can also see the switching voltage kicking in, motor jumps a tiny amount and that’s it. Other direction, fires up no problem. The motor is off the regulator to rule out any issues with that although when connected and on the bench that goes up and down with no issues. In short, seems there is power momentarily as relay clicks, motor jolts. Boot lock works fine also from the key fob but is it still possible this is connected to this issue? I can understand anti pinch blocking somehow but with a free running motor off the regulator ie zero load I cannot see why this would have any effect?
 

Pedro

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Hi Pedro, thanks for coming back. I can see the command from the switch via Diagbox - can also see the switching voltage kicking in, motor jumps a tiny amount and that’s it. Other direction, fires up no problem. The motor is off the regulator to rule out any issues with that although when connected and on the bench that goes up and down with no issues. In short, seems there is power momentarily as relay clicks, motor jolts. Boot lock works fine also from the key fob but is it still possible this is connected to this issue? I can understand anti pinch blocking somehow but with a free running motor off the regulator ie zero load I cannot see why this would have any effect?
You have the regulator working on the bench but do you think perhaps it runs free because it has no normal loading capacity Change relay maybe ? poss motor is failing when its under load ? The long shot is the BSI may be throwing up an signalling issue but it sounds as though the relay is or Motor (water contamination) could themselves be the problem the boot locks did have issues but I think it was on the earlier models
 

TL17

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Yes, I suppose will need to look at changing unit although when I swap relay control board from passenger window I get the same issue so I don’t think it’s that. Motor looks fine but yes, could be drawing too high current in reverse. I was trying to avoid the 130£ needed for a used unit when for a 308 it’s 20£! Any ideas if common with any other PSA models - motor at least if not the whole regulator unit?
 

TL17

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I have taken a punt on a 308 unit as the cost at 15£ is worth the experiment! I can use the motor internals if these match even if nil else does. If successful will revert as it’s good to know where we can save a bit here and there.
 

Pedro

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I have taken a punt on a 308 unit as the cost at 15£ is worth the experiment! I can use the motor internals if these match even if nil else does. If successful will revert as it’s good to know where we can save a bit here and there.
Give it a go see what happens I can't see what else you could go at try the 308 or alternatively search the breakers online you may get one for around the £50 mark if lucky
 

TL17

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Hi, received the 308 unit today, only difference to RCZ is the small plug in relay module otherwise identical it seems. I swapped the relay module from the existing unit, but same problem, down ok, up a tiny jolt on motor and then nil. As I’ve already proven relay module fine by testing on passenger window I’m back to square one. It’s not the switch. It’s not the motor, neither regulator. So it seems the issue is outside of the door. Is there another larger relay or control unit somewhere else anyone can think of that I should take a look at? Thoughts?
 

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Thanks, will take a look there also. Boot lock works however but from what you imply that makes no difference? Will look at, cheers.
 

Goatz

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Stupid question but did you try a window reset? Hold button down for 10 secs and up for ten secs?
 

TL17

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Not stupid at all - any ideas welcome. Yes, tried, just cannot get to move up at all. Strange one.
 

Pedro

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Hi, received the 308 unit today, only difference to RCZ is the small plug in relay module otherwise identical it seems. I swapped the relay module from the existing unit, but same problem, down ok, up a tiny jolt on motor and then nil. As I’ve already proven relay module fine by testing on passenger window I’m back to square one. It’s not the switch. It’s not the motor, neither regulator. So it seems the issue is outside of the door. Is there another larger relay or control unit somewhere else anyone can think of that I should take a look at? Thoughts?
Does this happen when the door is open & closed ? Has the immobiliser triggered during this problem ? if both units either side are operating then I would be suspicious that its something to do with the Body Control Module maybe a signal problem poss poor communication
 

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Ok will follow that also. One thing I didn’t mention but comes to mind I should do although I have no idea if any link - the AC control unit has zero power and Diagbox just gives a no comms error on the AC. It’s a job I was going to look at next but any chance a common issue here? Keep in mind passenger window is fine. Thoughts?
 

Pedro

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Drivers side only fault could point to wiring feed issue or even the switch is goosed? The A/C power problem could be numerous ie sensor/ pump or ground fault I doubt there is a connection but I know BCMs can be a pain if some clever cretin has been at them I once stripped out one off a Lady's 207cc GT & that had been repaired & botched up but luckily we got it sorted so you never know if there spikeing up faults until the car begins acting funny let us know how far your getting with this one
 
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