Distribution chain and tensioner information

[Valex]

Reading around the issue with the stretching distribution chain and the bad engineered tensioner I'm looking to collect more info are possible before let a mechanic do the job.

When I turn on my car (156HP 110.000 km) the rattle noise is not so loud but the first kilometers, if I go above the 2000 RPM the noise is really bad. When the oil heat up it is fine and no rattle noise.
No information if the distribution chain was previously replaced.

About the tensioner, I found out that the Mini (BMW) one should be better and searching for the part number I found this text on a website (just copy and paste):
MINI Cooper Chain Tensioner ONLY. Part #11-31-7-607-551 or #11-31-4-609-482 are interchangeable. We highly recommend installing the . This is the newest and up to date tensioner. This tensioner will will work on all the Gen 2 cars with an N12 or N16 Cooper engine, or the N14 & N18 Cooper S engine. This tensioner is 8mm, which is longer than the older standard size 78mm tensioner. This part is also bilaterally exchangeable with part number 11-31-4-609-482 and we stock and have both part numbers because MINI will send us both depending on what they have in stock no matter which part number we order. Both tensioners are the same size and length with the same spring. We can't explain why MINI has two part numbers, but they do.
MINI Timing Chain Tensioner. If you start up your car in the morning and you hear a rattling at start up or when it's cold out, then you are having a problem. Once it starts to rattle, it can jump teeth and cause the car to run poorly. It can even get so bad as to be off several teeth; and get to the point you cannot drive it without any check engine lights. We have seen the tensioners come loose from the block, the tensioners completely fail, the chain stretch (badly), as well as the car skips teeth, causing the timing to be off! If you don't want to do the whole kit you can try just adding this longer tensioner. But we still highly recommend installing the full kit.
As an added benefit, we are cryogenically treating the tensioner. The cryogenic “heat treating” process is where the material is cooled to approximately −185°C (−301°F) with the use of liquid nitrogen. This increases the amount of martensite in the steel's crystal structure, increasing its strength and hardness. This in turn will not allow the chain to stretch or the tensioner to fail as quickly, if ever. This keeps your motor in time better as well as run more quietly and last longer with the proper maintenance. Note: Customer must keep oil in the car.
Note: Torque to 48 ft lbs. (65Nm).

It is just a copy and paste so, where is write "We highly recommend installing the .” the part number is missed but reading the rest of the text looks the Part #11-31-7-607-551 is the recommended one.
Very interesting and I hope this information can help the forum community.
Abut the cryogenically treating, probably it is good but it is not the subject of this thread, it is just part of the copy and paste .

About the distribution chain (kit), is there a recommended one? My knowledge stop to the point that the original Peugeot one was replaced with a stronger one but not everybody think that this is the true , also the better one stretch !
Please share your knowledge !

 

[neilgsxr69]

Yes I believe Peugeot did make updated parts, basically a revised tensioner and beefed up guides, but as you’ve mentioned there is a third tensioner now available.
I would personally buy a genuine kit but buying from Citroen may be cheaper than Peugeot or BMW

 

[Valex]

Bad news for my car
Yesterday evening I was just checking the oil level and when I opened the filling cap, fortunately I decided to look inside the hole with the light of my phone.
I found this
and I took out

A piece of the top guide !

So now I'm using the 206 CC of my girlfriend and wait the offers of some garage I contacted yesterday.

 

[Pedro]

Your not getting the Engine hot enough you have sludge build up in the rocker cover you need to take the car for a long run & get it red hot to disperse all the gunge !

 

[Valex]

Really? I was happy to see the gold color , I saw many cars with dark brown almost black sludge inside the rocket cover
Let me change the timing chain before I do what you suggest .
It is my dilemma with this motor, drive slow so I do not stretch the chain or drive fast so the intake valves stay a little bit cleaner .

 

[Pedro]

All that gunge is a build up of sediment from the Engine oil not being heated sufficiently it contains condensate moisture & acidic properties which could in the long term cause minor damage to susceptible components like oil seals that is partly why modern Engines need to run a t Max temperatures for cleanliness & efficiency Engine oil does contain detergents to keep the internal parts clean but this work best when high temperature heat is generated to activate all these properties to be effective

 

[Valex]

From Wikipedia:
Italian tune up is a slang automotive term for attempting to restore engine performance by driving a car at high engine speed (RPM) and load. The term originated from Italian mechanics in the 1950s using this practice to burn off carbon deposits from the spark plugs of sports cars.
I think it is what you are suggesting me to do. Just that you know ... I'm Italian Hahaha

Maybe an engine flush before the next oil change with some product like the Liqui Moly Motorclean (I used it in the past for another car) will have the same effect without risk to stretch the already weak chain.

 

[Valex]

Just to update the topic, driving slower than a snail with many cars on my back thinking how a so sporty car could drive so sloooow , I reached the official Peugeot dealer. I let the car there an went home.
The day after, after they opened the cover and checked the chain they called me saying what was needed to change and the price. I went to the dealer again for speak with them but, strange story, they told me that working on the motor they probably bended two valves so they were going to remove the cylinder head to check the damage ... but that the extra work I didn't have to pay .
The RCZ was a full week at the dealer. 1065 Euro and I have new full timing chain kit include the two camshaft pinions and tensioner. They told me they also cleaned all the intake valves.
Happy with my "new car" I just drove back at home and I had the check engine light on !!!
Back to the dealer again, they changed an electric oil pump that was a Peugeot recall so I didn't have to pay.
No idea about what it is, is someone can explain me.

I've still the box full of metal parts and the damaged/grinded guides in the trunk. Didn't have time to check if there are also valves . Maybe I will make some picture.

Now I'm busy with the advocate to try to have the money back from the generic cars dealer where I bought the car two months ago.

 

[neilgsxr69]

Glad you’ve got it sorted and you can now enjoy your car.