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My catch managed to disconnect itself, leaving me with just a floppy lever. Does anybody have a clue how to open the catch without breaking the car?
Thanks
That was a lucky break that you weren‘t on the motorway. Somebody was taking care of you up there :-).
The Saab 9-3 had this problem and it was a serious one as you never knew when the coils were going to snap. It can be dangerous as you found out, ripping the tyre to shreds. Bearing this in...
I will shortly put a procedure in here to help those who have to, or want to replace their coils/springs. They can break due to material wear and at the latest need replacing when it comes to inspection time. Best to do both sides of the same axle. As said, a procedure will follow soon.
I had a warning pop up while I was just driving a meagre 110km/h, so nursed it home and then spent some time this week solving the issue.
First - find the OBD2 socket … was easy ..remove the ashtray (never been used) and then carefully lift out the rubber base under the ashtray.
Next OBD2...
I am about to replace the P21/5W and found it's not just a remove and replace job. However, as you all seem to think it's a 5 minute job, it looks as if I missed something.
Back to the driveway.
ok, job done. Let's go back to basics.
The drive lightbulbs are good old-fashioned H1 P21/5W...
You could be right. The top was easy as you can see it. The lower one was done by reaching in …bit of a stretch and yes, copper is very soft. Thats why they are used as a sealer. One point though, if the new ending slides back and forth, does it really matter? I have heard that the oil pressure...
I put it all back together and went for a test drive. Oil leaking out of the lower connection, judging by the smell. I found the new part sent by Autodoc suspect as I could move one end back and forth, just like I could the faulty original. However, thinking a new part must be ok, I soldiered...
well, the flexi pipe proved to be impossible to find although industrial suppliers should have that sort of thing. Unbelievable but the supplier of the pipe actually sent it without replacement oil bolts and copper washers. That‘s what you get for not going to Peugeot. :-(
I‘m trying to do the...
hi Pedro, I have the same problem now and just received the ordered replacement pipe. Your suggestion about a flexi-pipe sounds good, but could you give me a part number or supplier? Logically, the motor and turbo vibration needs the flexibility which the hard pipe doesn‘t offer. Why didn‘t the...
dear all,
Since I bought my RCZ last year it has always stuttered at lower speeds which I thought was the ECU not making it's mind up how I would like to drive. Modern tech and all that jazz! I wasn't too bothered about it. The top speed was around 190km/h.
One evening a few weeks ago the car...
As it turned out, the chain was not the problem. It was the high pressure fuel pump. But ... the diesel-like clattering when the engine is cold gave all the warning signs so the local Peugeot mechanic recommended changing the whole lot anyway. Chain, tension bits, cogs, belts and guides. I knew...
thanks team RCZ. Unfortunately the chain beat me to it. Last week after the temperature had dropped to around 9C I started the engine and the chain decided it was time to go the workshop for me, jumping 'n' amount of teeth. I knew thanks to all your help immediately what it was. Hopefully the...
Yep, I agree with taking it back. The workshop boys have missed something. The mechanic who did the work will have to backtrack all his stuff or the Meister should check it over.
cheers
Hi Double Bubble and Pedro,
whilst on the subject of juddering, is this when accelerating on a cold engine? It's as if the ECU can't make up it's mind how I am going to drive by selecting different mixtures of petrol/air. I am inclined to think it's the timing chain when cold but it could also...
How to recognise the signs of a stretched chain before it's too late?
I suspect it's when the engine sounds like a clattering diesel when it's cold. Can anybody give me a clear idea?
thanks
hi Apple, the video clips are good but they always make sure things come apart beforehand. You just have to be careful when heaving things out, not to break the plastic bits
I've done the job and made a How To report. You can print it in the form of a broschure :-). Took a bit of time but I think it's worthwhile. One more thing I forgot to put in there: before you start leave the ignition switched off for 3 or 4 minutes.
Have fun
OK lads, one more thing. If I make a small report on 'how to' change the battery, where can I put the report on this website? is it best just to attach it to my own post as a reply? It would be written and with photos (I'm not a videoman), besides, it gives me more time to do it properly.
Greetings
HI Bruce, replacing the battery looks to be a nightmare as all the electronics has 12v power attachments right above the + terminal. Dismantle half the car to change a battery? I hope not.