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Your engine will tell you if the chain & tensioner needs changing & service data suggests its in the 100.000 range on these engines but servicing before schedules could make a massive difference to chain life

The ignition barrel reads the key chip that's why its all integrated into the key fob many people have found the cars been immobilised from the key for different reasons like a dead battery etc

You need to scan the car just too many niggling issues if these play up like sensors - Actuator motors-control unit-loss of headlamp adjustment from basic setting etc

You can clearly see where the finger has overrun from the line sealant pathway & where is the sticker from the rocker cover ? I have stuck numerous sump & rocker covers down so it looks to me like some has at some removed it for a leak issue ?

You don't normally see the sealant that thick on the corners ?

Some try to fix this issue by swapping injectors over as long as they are working ok we did it with my sons BMW tourer cleaned them up stuck a dose of REDX in it & it went like a dream Regarding the timing its possible as the Chain & tensioner wear can contribute to lumpy idle & hesitation on...

Good but I would have changed both as they work as a pair

Mine were mostly peaks & troughs I'm assuming the first long term trim fuel graph was at idle & the second under load ? The 1st long term looks way off range & the second appears erratic unless its the scanner ? When mine were measured the Idle were uniform but acceleration dipped under load...

Found this in my documents file very strange one this not all that dissimilar to your issue ?

Don't worry about it as long as it changed regularly & your not travelling a great deal its fine at the end of the day its the owners choices to preserve his engine's life all I will add is never take anything a garage tells you at face value as probably untold numbers of garages use thin oils I...

I stuck the Quartz 9000 5w30 NFC5 in my eldest sons Focus ST & he reckons it runs better + smother from the cold start I said it was great stuff ! funny old world innit :oops::ROFLMAO:

My 200 does a few odd ones it will rise to 1500 then on anther start ups it may hover at 1200-1000-900 etc depending on the outside atmospheric temperature as the ECU gets the data from the temp sensor in the door mirror to calculate what Air/Fuel ratio is needed for the cold start but don't...

Sorry I should have mentioned the Exhaust Camshaft sensor first as this is a red flag on these engine's

Just plug the scanner in & search menu for high & Low fuel trims & check whilst the engine is running it will hopefully show you the graph measured readings when I did mine it was when the car was under load & at idle this told me my pump was knackered as the fuel pressure was dropping like a...

From your graph I'm ruling out the knock sensor as your engines not pinging possibilities it could be cam/crank sensors pointing to timing being retarded? Checking the fuel trims (important) to rule out timing issues from the chain /tensioner set up Check the upstream/downstream Lambda...

You need to have the car scanned to find any issues as to why the EML lights is on I suggest you take it back to whoever sold it & tell them to fix whatever is wrong ?

Head gasket test ?

Thinking of buying a boat as every garden in this village is waterlogged !:oops:

Get a cheapish code reader & post up the codes unless you want to pay extortionate rates at the dealers ?

Misfires should never ever be ignored especially in direct injection engines & if the Knock sensor as I might suspect maybe triggered you have detonation issues & as has been said previously remaps are fine but may come back to haunt you & adding power to any car will mean a a lot more wear on...